So two more sleeps then Im leaving this amazing continent on a jet plane to head back home. I cant believe the 3 months is up. Wow. A month ago I was freaking out at the idea of going back to Sydney, and facing reality. Travelling is the most self indulgent form of living. You do what you want, when you want (except when on a tour, then you just switch off the brain and be told what to do).
But now Im a little more prepared and excited to be coming home. Ch7 has freelance shifts for me in January, which will help boost the bank balance and give me time to find a permanent job.
Spending my last week in Buenos Aires has been good too. Plenty of time to get to know the city and relax, but also long enough that by the end of the week im thinking, ok, time for something new.
So here is a re-cap of my time here:
Highlights (in no particular order ... more chronological than anything)
Meeting Paul and Rena in Peru. Two awesome people who made me laugh 2 weeks straight.
Machu Picchu. Stunning.
Bolivian Salt Flats. Felt like I was on another planet.
The Pantanal wetlands in Brazil. Out of my comfort zone, but for my own good.
Snorkelling down a Bonito river. Crystal clear shallow waters.
Ilha Grande. Gorgeous island.
Jericoacoara. Remote Brazilian sandy street beach town. Favourite place.
Arrail DAjuda. Another excellent Brazilian beach town.
Rio with Mark. Great weather.
Buenos Aires. Awesome city to lose yourself walking around. And great nightlife and food.
Our Patagonia tour group.
Patagonia. Stunning scenery and great weather.
Lowlights, or things I cant wait to see the end of:
White bread. Its served every day for breakfast, no matter which country. Uggghhhhhh
Throwing toilet paper in the bin next to the toilet. Yucky. Someone remind me to stop doing this when I get home.
Buying water. Although I stopped doing that in Argentina, where the tap water is fine.
Actually thats about all I wont miss about South America.
The hardest part of travelling for me is saying goodbye to all the awesome people you meet along the way that you spend an hour, or a day or 2 weeks travelling with. But I guess its better to have met them than to have never met them at all.
Saturday, December 19, 2009
Thursday, December 17, 2009
The one where Lynne fends off prostitutes
Thought that headline might get your attention ... more on the prostitutes of Buenos Aires in a minute. (god im still writing like it´s a tv news script!!!)
If the last blog was all about trekking and mountain scenery, this one is all about the Argentian nightlife. After Puerto Natales we got a bus to Punta Arenas, in very southern Chile. Its a crap town, as Mark said .. i dont have good vibes about this place. He was right. Its the kind of place you stop when you need to travel long distances. We stayed in a b and b called Dinkas House, run by a crazy Croatian woman who has photos of herself all over the walls.
There were two gems in the town though. The restaurant we had dinner in was lovely, with great ambience and service. Two common themes in Argentina. And we found a bar with a jukebox so spent the night playing daggy songs.
The next day was a full day to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. Its way below Tasmania and New Zealand. Its back in Argentina, so we had another border crossing.
We slept most of the 11 hour trip, because the tour had been pretty full on.
Ushuaia is a lovely town, and wasnt that cold. We were so blessed with the weather. We went on a boat on the Beagle Channel, seeing seals and birds.
It was Marks last night on the tour because he flew home a day early, so we went to an Irish pub (is there a town in the world without one???) then to a karoke bar. Only Martin the tour leader sang.
A little hungover the next day, and with minimal sleep, 6 of us went for our last hike, but it was an easy coastal 3 hour walk.
It was back to Buenos Aires the next morning. Our final night of the tour saw most of the group looking sick or tired. Only me and Amy from England and Martin showed any kind of stamina.
We went to a little bar in Palermo at midnight, and waited for 3 hours until anyone else turned up! Man they party late in this city. But when it got crowded it was really fun. Like being in an intimate house party.
I was sad to see the tour end. It was a great group. The next day I checked into the Milhouse hostel. Its a party hostel but I have my own gorgeous private room. One of the best Ive stayed in. And the rooms are away from the noisy bar area.
Its easy to meet people. I made friends with an Irish girl called Clare whod been living in Coogee. The hostel has a party on Monday night, where the common room eating area is transformed into a disco .. it reminded me of a Blue Light disco at one stage with everyone standing around the edges until the dancefloor got going.
We then headed to a club across the road, and when that closed at ridiculous oclock, 5 guys and I decided to see what else Buenos Aires had in store on a Tuesday morning. So we asked a cabbie and he dropped us off at a club. After I wrangled down the extortinate cover charge we went inside, and got our ´free drink´. But once we sat down we realised everyone else was either a dodgy old man, or a prostitute.
The prositutes swarmed on the new arrivals, and because I was the only one to speak any kind of Spanish, they targetted me, telling me how beautiful my friends were and could they have them for the day. I was keen to get the hell out of there, but I think the boys were enjoying the attention, because the women were quite attractive. The women even offered to find me a nice Argentinian guy .. who was probably the same one who followed one of the Aussies into the bathroom and offered him a lewd sex act.
We quickly left .. although only 3 of the 5 Australian guys returned home .. not sure where they went????
If the last blog was all about trekking and mountain scenery, this one is all about the Argentian nightlife. After Puerto Natales we got a bus to Punta Arenas, in very southern Chile. Its a crap town, as Mark said .. i dont have good vibes about this place. He was right. Its the kind of place you stop when you need to travel long distances. We stayed in a b and b called Dinkas House, run by a crazy Croatian woman who has photos of herself all over the walls.
There were two gems in the town though. The restaurant we had dinner in was lovely, with great ambience and service. Two common themes in Argentina. And we found a bar with a jukebox so spent the night playing daggy songs.
The next day was a full day to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. Its way below Tasmania and New Zealand. Its back in Argentina, so we had another border crossing.
We slept most of the 11 hour trip, because the tour had been pretty full on.
Ushuaia is a lovely town, and wasnt that cold. We were so blessed with the weather. We went on a boat on the Beagle Channel, seeing seals and birds.
It was Marks last night on the tour because he flew home a day early, so we went to an Irish pub (is there a town in the world without one???) then to a karoke bar. Only Martin the tour leader sang.
A little hungover the next day, and with minimal sleep, 6 of us went for our last hike, but it was an easy coastal 3 hour walk.
It was back to Buenos Aires the next morning. Our final night of the tour saw most of the group looking sick or tired. Only me and Amy from England and Martin showed any kind of stamina.
We went to a little bar in Palermo at midnight, and waited for 3 hours until anyone else turned up! Man they party late in this city. But when it got crowded it was really fun. Like being in an intimate house party.
I was sad to see the tour end. It was a great group. The next day I checked into the Milhouse hostel. Its a party hostel but I have my own gorgeous private room. One of the best Ive stayed in. And the rooms are away from the noisy bar area.
Its easy to meet people. I made friends with an Irish girl called Clare whod been living in Coogee. The hostel has a party on Monday night, where the common room eating area is transformed into a disco .. it reminded me of a Blue Light disco at one stage with everyone standing around the edges until the dancefloor got going.
We then headed to a club across the road, and when that closed at ridiculous oclock, 5 guys and I decided to see what else Buenos Aires had in store on a Tuesday morning. So we asked a cabbie and he dropped us off at a club. After I wrangled down the extortinate cover charge we went inside, and got our ´free drink´. But once we sat down we realised everyone else was either a dodgy old man, or a prostitute.
The prositutes swarmed on the new arrivals, and because I was the only one to speak any kind of Spanish, they targetted me, telling me how beautiful my friends were and could they have them for the day. I was keen to get the hell out of there, but I think the boys were enjoying the attention, because the women were quite attractive. The women even offered to find me a nice Argentinian guy .. who was probably the same one who followed one of the Aussies into the bathroom and offered him a lewd sex act.
We quickly left .. although only 3 of the 5 Australian guys returned home .. not sure where they went????
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
The one where we hit ice, ice baby
Its been over a week since my last blog, because Ive been trekking in Patagonia... and actually did ok!
Mark, a Sydney girl he met in Peru called Alex and I went to a football match in Buenos Aires the night before we joined the tour. We saw two local teams play. It wasnt as good as the Rio match because they put tourists in this protected area, which has a great view, but is completely separated from all the fans, and you feel a little detached from the action. The locals are in the stands above us, and were crazy. At one stage there was about 20,000 people just jumping up and down and chanting. Awesome to see.
The three of us went out in Palermo, a cool part of town, after the match. We had possibly the worst meal Ive had on the this trip. Argentinian food and wine has been unreal, except for this dodgy restaurant where I ate spaghetti with soy sauce, and dessert was cheese and a caramel sauce. mmm tasty, not.
Buenos Aires nightlife doesnt kick in till 3am, so we stayed out a while drinking at an outdoors table.
The next day Mark and I switched hotels and joined our Patagonia group. There are 8 of us, which is a nice small size. When they all started talking about marathons, iron mans and everest base camp treks I started freaking out thinking Id be unable to keep up with them. But you know what? I managed fine, and really surprised myself. Some of them got a lot more tired than I did.
Martin is our tour leader. Hes a 31 year old from Mendoza, the Argentinian wine region. And as luck would have it is a sommelier, so every night we have been tasting different wines. Man they are so good here. Hes a lot of fun. In fact our group is getting along so well its ridiculous. We are all having a great time together.
We flew from Buenos Aires to El Calafate, and on the first day we went to Perito Moreno Glacier. Wow. Its a huge glacier, several kilometres wide and about 80m high. We went on a boat to get up close and see huge chunks of ice fall into the water. Global warming right in front of us.
That night, like every night, we went to a great restaurant to sample local cuisine and wine.
The following day we got a bus to El Chalten, the Argentinian trekking capital in Patagonia. Its a little village where we based ourselves for 2 days to do treks to Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. Huge shaggy mountains. The first day trek was 9 hours and 24 km long and one of the hardest. Man we were all so tired, but at least I keeped up and felt pretty good afterwards. Mark was more tired than me! The second trek was shorter, about 6 hours, and easier.
The only problem with all our treks has been the fact they arent a loop, so we get to the lookout, or top of the mountain, then have to come back the same way, which is a bit monotonous. Although we certainly couldnt complain about the weather. Patagonia is notorious for changing seasons in an hour, and the wind, but we had perfect sunny days every day.
From Chalten we went back to Calafate and then got a bus to Chile, where we camped in Torres Del Paine for 3 nights. Yes, Lynne camped. Shared a tent with her brother even. I cant believe we fit inside it! Talk about bonding with your brother. Its been fun, and we have got along well. Hardly any little tiffs, let alone arguments.
3 more day treks there. They were quite hard. Mark says its been a lot tougher than the Inca Trail. All between 4 and 9 hours long. Plenty of thinking time, and chatting time.
The group has a lot of funny stories. Mark has re-introduced Roxette to everyone, so weve been reminiscing about dodgy 80s bands, and spotting people who look like celebrities.
Martin brought along 12 bottles of wine for the camping, which we finished on the second night. Peter, from Colorado, got a little drunk and nearly fell into the camp fire while doing the crump (a dance). Hilarious, but only because he so spectacularly managed to avoid the flames.
The camping wasnt that tough. We had cooks make us 3 excellent meals a day. The chefs name was Carlos Santana. Seriously. I guess hes taking a break from his guitar.
So I feel really good about managing to trek almost 90 km in 5 days. Quite an accomplishment considering my preparation involved 2 months of being a backpacker bum, sitting on beaches and occasionally going for walks around towns. Its been greast scenery. Huge snow capped mountains, lagoons and lakes.
Lots of condors, which I just love. They are beautiful to watch in the sky.
We are now in Puerto Natales, which is still in Chile. We are heading south over the next few days.
Last night we went out for drinks and Martin, me and 2 other girls had a pretty big one. So Im a little dusty this morning.
Mark, a Sydney girl he met in Peru called Alex and I went to a football match in Buenos Aires the night before we joined the tour. We saw two local teams play. It wasnt as good as the Rio match because they put tourists in this protected area, which has a great view, but is completely separated from all the fans, and you feel a little detached from the action. The locals are in the stands above us, and were crazy. At one stage there was about 20,000 people just jumping up and down and chanting. Awesome to see.
The three of us went out in Palermo, a cool part of town, after the match. We had possibly the worst meal Ive had on the this trip. Argentinian food and wine has been unreal, except for this dodgy restaurant where I ate spaghetti with soy sauce, and dessert was cheese and a caramel sauce. mmm tasty, not.
Buenos Aires nightlife doesnt kick in till 3am, so we stayed out a while drinking at an outdoors table.
The next day Mark and I switched hotels and joined our Patagonia group. There are 8 of us, which is a nice small size. When they all started talking about marathons, iron mans and everest base camp treks I started freaking out thinking Id be unable to keep up with them. But you know what? I managed fine, and really surprised myself. Some of them got a lot more tired than I did.
Martin is our tour leader. Hes a 31 year old from Mendoza, the Argentinian wine region. And as luck would have it is a sommelier, so every night we have been tasting different wines. Man they are so good here. Hes a lot of fun. In fact our group is getting along so well its ridiculous. We are all having a great time together.
We flew from Buenos Aires to El Calafate, and on the first day we went to Perito Moreno Glacier. Wow. Its a huge glacier, several kilometres wide and about 80m high. We went on a boat to get up close and see huge chunks of ice fall into the water. Global warming right in front of us.
That night, like every night, we went to a great restaurant to sample local cuisine and wine.
The following day we got a bus to El Chalten, the Argentinian trekking capital in Patagonia. Its a little village where we based ourselves for 2 days to do treks to Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. Huge shaggy mountains. The first day trek was 9 hours and 24 km long and one of the hardest. Man we were all so tired, but at least I keeped up and felt pretty good afterwards. Mark was more tired than me! The second trek was shorter, about 6 hours, and easier.
The only problem with all our treks has been the fact they arent a loop, so we get to the lookout, or top of the mountain, then have to come back the same way, which is a bit monotonous. Although we certainly couldnt complain about the weather. Patagonia is notorious for changing seasons in an hour, and the wind, but we had perfect sunny days every day.
From Chalten we went back to Calafate and then got a bus to Chile, where we camped in Torres Del Paine for 3 nights. Yes, Lynne camped. Shared a tent with her brother even. I cant believe we fit inside it! Talk about bonding with your brother. Its been fun, and we have got along well. Hardly any little tiffs, let alone arguments.
3 more day treks there. They were quite hard. Mark says its been a lot tougher than the Inca Trail. All between 4 and 9 hours long. Plenty of thinking time, and chatting time.
The group has a lot of funny stories. Mark has re-introduced Roxette to everyone, so weve been reminiscing about dodgy 80s bands, and spotting people who look like celebrities.
Martin brought along 12 bottles of wine for the camping, which we finished on the second night. Peter, from Colorado, got a little drunk and nearly fell into the camp fire while doing the crump (a dance). Hilarious, but only because he so spectacularly managed to avoid the flames.
The camping wasnt that tough. We had cooks make us 3 excellent meals a day. The chefs name was Carlos Santana. Seriously. I guess hes taking a break from his guitar.
So I feel really good about managing to trek almost 90 km in 5 days. Quite an accomplishment considering my preparation involved 2 months of being a backpacker bum, sitting on beaches and occasionally going for walks around towns. Its been greast scenery. Huge snow capped mountains, lagoons and lakes.
Lots of condors, which I just love. They are beautiful to watch in the sky.
We are now in Puerto Natales, which is still in Chile. We are heading south over the next few days.
Last night we went out for drinks and Martin, me and 2 other girls had a pretty big one. So Im a little dusty this morning.
Sunday, November 29, 2009
The one where we moshed at The Killers
Man what an awesome awesome night. The Killers rocked.
Our first full day in Buenos was incredible. The most amazing weather. We walked around Recoleta, the posh part of town, and went and saw Eva Perons grave, purely because everyone seems to do it in this city. The cemetery was interesting, but we didnt hang around long.
Mark then suggested a beer in the sun. Buenos is full of al fresco cafes and bars and restaurants. Im in heaven. So we had a drink and some nachos in Recoleta, then decided to do a pub crawl around a few suburbs.
Next stop Las Canitas, then Palermo. Both neighbourhoods are so cool. You just cant go wrong in this city. Think differing versions of Balmain and Surry Hills. So we sat outside all afternoon drinking wine and beer while people watching. But no one goes out here till well after 9pm, and by then we had hit the wall so called it quits and went home.
The next morning ... not so fun. It was raining, and cold. We tried to do one of those daggy hop on hop off city bus tours, but it was a bit of a disaster. The bus up top had open windows, and we froze. The most interesting point was when protesters walked past us and were waving and yelling while we took photos of them.
So we abandoned it and I had a relaxing afternoon at the hotel while Mark met up with a girl from his Peru tour who is here. The 3 of us had dinner then Mark and I headed off to The Killers.
God it was one of the best concerts ever!!!! I know Paul Budrikis thinks theyre over rated .. but theyre my favourite band.
We were standing about 40 metres back, surrounded by 20,000 fans. By now the skies had cleared. They opened with Human and the crowd went crazy. Moshing .. thank god my brother is 6ft4 so he could look out for me and stand behind me! It was such a great night. They played all the hits. Brandon Flowers is such a charistmatic and energetic performer.
I cant remember the last time I moshed at an open air concert!
Today is the last day before we join the Intrepid tour of Patagonia. Im a little nervous about it. God Im just so unfit after 2 months of no exercise. I even slightly strained my calf muscle at the concert last night!
Our first full day in Buenos was incredible. The most amazing weather. We walked around Recoleta, the posh part of town, and went and saw Eva Perons grave, purely because everyone seems to do it in this city. The cemetery was interesting, but we didnt hang around long.
Mark then suggested a beer in the sun. Buenos is full of al fresco cafes and bars and restaurants. Im in heaven. So we had a drink and some nachos in Recoleta, then decided to do a pub crawl around a few suburbs.
Next stop Las Canitas, then Palermo. Both neighbourhoods are so cool. You just cant go wrong in this city. Think differing versions of Balmain and Surry Hills. So we sat outside all afternoon drinking wine and beer while people watching. But no one goes out here till well after 9pm, and by then we had hit the wall so called it quits and went home.
The next morning ... not so fun. It was raining, and cold. We tried to do one of those daggy hop on hop off city bus tours, but it was a bit of a disaster. The bus up top had open windows, and we froze. The most interesting point was when protesters walked past us and were waving and yelling while we took photos of them.
So we abandoned it and I had a relaxing afternoon at the hotel while Mark met up with a girl from his Peru tour who is here. The 3 of us had dinner then Mark and I headed off to The Killers.
God it was one of the best concerts ever!!!! I know Paul Budrikis thinks theyre over rated .. but theyre my favourite band.
We were standing about 40 metres back, surrounded by 20,000 fans. By now the skies had cleared. They opened with Human and the crowd went crazy. Moshing .. thank god my brother is 6ft4 so he could look out for me and stand behind me! It was such a great night. They played all the hits. Brandon Flowers is such a charistmatic and energetic performer.
I cant remember the last time I moshed at an open air concert!
Today is the last day before we join the Intrepid tour of Patagonia. Im a little nervous about it. God Im just so unfit after 2 months of no exercise. I even slightly strained my calf muscle at the concert last night!
Friday, November 27, 2009
The one where Lynne does the Tango
Buenos Aires .. what an awesome city. Except for the stupid horrible man who asked me if I was pregnant!!!!!!!!!!! So Ive obviously put on a little holiday belly during this trip. I was pretending I hadnt until the stupid shop attendant while finding me a jacket size pointed to the holiday belly and said 'oh youre pregnant'.
I didnt buy the jacket. My poor brother hasnt heard the end of my fury and depression. When will men learn that even when a woman's water has broken and she is clearly in labour, you never say 'oh youre pregnant'. Its so rude. I havent been asked that in years, since losing weight. Clearly its now back!!!! So my brother is having to put up with me looking in every window reflection at my stomach, saying 'it isnt that big' and now feeling guilty every time I eat a big meal. But seriously, who diets on holidays? Of course Im going to eat pizza, ice cream and pringles every day if I want to. And its hard to find lots of fresh fruit and vegetables in South America. Anyway, Ill move on.
We left Punta Del Este in Uruguay one day early. The weather was cold, so it was pointless hanging out at a beach hostel. Although we had to wait all day for our laundry to be returned. Ahhh laundry. So many funny stories about handing your laundry in. One time in Brazil I collected my laundry from the lavanderia, and the girl was saying something about a black t shirt and pointing to the underarms.
When I got back to the hotel I realised she had kept my favourite Billabong t shirt because it was so dirty it needed 2 washes! So I collected it the next day, although it only lasted another couple of weeks. Im sure you will all be glad you wont see that t shirt in any more photos because I threw it out in Rio.
We went to Montevideo for one night. Its a nice enough city, not a lot to see. Too many McDonalds signs and flags waving from poles for my liking. But the usual cobbled streets and outdoor cafes and rundown buildings to fill the city with character.
We then got a bus to Colonia and a ferry to Buenos Aires. Buenos Aires is great. Huge huge city, but you could walk all day and constantly see something interesting. We are staying in the centre, in a hotel we booked on my new favourite website booking.com. Its so easy to use, and has some bargains on it. We got a really nice hotel for $35 per person a night, inc great breakfast. Although obviously Im now ignoring the pastries.
Our first afternoon was spent collecting our tickets to The Killers for tomorrow night. Mark googled them in Punta Del Este, and found out they were playing here. God I was so excited! My favourite band in a cool city!!!! But hes angry he will miss seeing ACDC by 2 days .. and there are still tickets on sale!
We walked around the pedestrianised shopping area, had coffee at Plaza Mayo. Then went to a tango show last night. Its a touristy thing to do, but sometimes they can still be really good fun, and it was.
We first had a tango class. My god, the Scrivens family are not dancers. We battled through learning 8 steps, Mark and I as partners, then had to dance in front of the class and messed it up!
I had steak and red wine for dinner ... yay!!! Finally tasting the amazing Argentinian reds and steak that everyone raves about. Then the tango show started, and it was really good. Man these people can move. And I had to get up 3 times to dance!!!! Far out, I was sitting in a spot that was easy for the guys to grab me. Mark and I both ended up on stage dancing for a bit, then a couple of times I danced in the aisles with the men. It was fun.
I didnt buy the jacket. My poor brother hasnt heard the end of my fury and depression. When will men learn that even when a woman's water has broken and she is clearly in labour, you never say 'oh youre pregnant'. Its so rude. I havent been asked that in years, since losing weight. Clearly its now back!!!! So my brother is having to put up with me looking in every window reflection at my stomach, saying 'it isnt that big' and now feeling guilty every time I eat a big meal. But seriously, who diets on holidays? Of course Im going to eat pizza, ice cream and pringles every day if I want to. And its hard to find lots of fresh fruit and vegetables in South America. Anyway, Ill move on.
We left Punta Del Este in Uruguay one day early. The weather was cold, so it was pointless hanging out at a beach hostel. Although we had to wait all day for our laundry to be returned. Ahhh laundry. So many funny stories about handing your laundry in. One time in Brazil I collected my laundry from the lavanderia, and the girl was saying something about a black t shirt and pointing to the underarms.
When I got back to the hotel I realised she had kept my favourite Billabong t shirt because it was so dirty it needed 2 washes! So I collected it the next day, although it only lasted another couple of weeks. Im sure you will all be glad you wont see that t shirt in any more photos because I threw it out in Rio.
We went to Montevideo for one night. Its a nice enough city, not a lot to see. Too many McDonalds signs and flags waving from poles for my liking. But the usual cobbled streets and outdoor cafes and rundown buildings to fill the city with character.
We then got a bus to Colonia and a ferry to Buenos Aires. Buenos Aires is great. Huge huge city, but you could walk all day and constantly see something interesting. We are staying in the centre, in a hotel we booked on my new favourite website booking.com. Its so easy to use, and has some bargains on it. We got a really nice hotel for $35 per person a night, inc great breakfast. Although obviously Im now ignoring the pastries.
Our first afternoon was spent collecting our tickets to The Killers for tomorrow night. Mark googled them in Punta Del Este, and found out they were playing here. God I was so excited! My favourite band in a cool city!!!! But hes angry he will miss seeing ACDC by 2 days .. and there are still tickets on sale!
We walked around the pedestrianised shopping area, had coffee at Plaza Mayo. Then went to a tango show last night. Its a touristy thing to do, but sometimes they can still be really good fun, and it was.
We first had a tango class. My god, the Scrivens family are not dancers. We battled through learning 8 steps, Mark and I as partners, then had to dance in front of the class and messed it up!
I had steak and red wine for dinner ... yay!!! Finally tasting the amazing Argentinian reds and steak that everyone raves about. Then the tango show started, and it was really good. Man these people can move. And I had to get up 3 times to dance!!!! Far out, I was sitting in a spot that was easy for the guys to grab me. Mark and I both ended up on stage dancing for a bit, then a couple of times I danced in the aisles with the men. It was fun.
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
The one where we arrived in Uruguay
Buses in Brazil are great. Comfy with seats that recline a long long way back. We had a 9 hour bus trip to Sao Paulo. Its not that far, just the coast road is very windy and the bus makes sooo many stops. Even 90 minutes out of Sao Paulo, we stop for a 20 minute break. Just Get There!!! Ive lost my Ipod charger so its power is on borrowed time. Luckily Marks Ipod has some good music on it!
Thankfully I had booked a hotel online because arriving in Sao Paulo at 10.30 on a Friday night without a hotel would have been a little frightening!
The hotel seemed to be in a nightclub part of town, although that could be every street in a city the size of Sao Paulo.
We spent half a day walking around, re visiting part of the city I had been to on my Intrepid tour a month earlier. Sao Paulo is not that interesting. Its a hold onto your wallet the whole time kind of place, and can get really crowded in the black market area where we walked.
We didnt do much in the afternoon, just stayed around the hotel and ate a kilo of ice cream at a self serve place.
The next day we got a flight to Montevideo, in Uruguay. A 40 minute cab ride took about 15 minutes thanks to the driver doing 140kph for some reason.
At the airport we were waiting to get a cab to the bus stop to get a bus to Punta Del Este, when Mark had the spot of the day, by seeing a bus pass by with a sign to the very town we were wanting to go! So before you knew it we were heading to Punta, which is like a mini Gold Coast. I am sad to have left Brazil. 6 weeks there in a country I fell in love with, and Im already having Brazil withdrawals. Its colder here. Like, about 15 degrees it feels like. Although its probably warmer, Im just used to 35 degrees every day. We are staying in 1949 Hostel. We got lost walking the 100m to the hostel from the bus stop. Mark is standing behind me telling me to blame the map. Ill be Switzerland .. neutral.
The hostel is cool. We have a twin room, but there are lots of fun travellers here, so I settled in for an evening of drinking and chatting, while Mark had an early night.
Mark and I are going well together. Sometimes he speaks in a language I cant understand. eg `hopefully there will be fresh fish at the hostel today' means 'hopefully some hot new chicks will check in today'. His favourite saying is 'shes not struggling'. This means the girl he is perving on is hot. And he has an unbelievable memory for movie and Seinfeld quotes. We have also developed a game where if we see someone who looks like someone famous, we say I didnt know Vladimir Putin was in Uruguay. The best one was the Jonathon Thurston lookalike here in the hostel.
Thankfully I had booked a hotel online because arriving in Sao Paulo at 10.30 on a Friday night without a hotel would have been a little frightening!
The hotel seemed to be in a nightclub part of town, although that could be every street in a city the size of Sao Paulo.
We spent half a day walking around, re visiting part of the city I had been to on my Intrepid tour a month earlier. Sao Paulo is not that interesting. Its a hold onto your wallet the whole time kind of place, and can get really crowded in the black market area where we walked.
We didnt do much in the afternoon, just stayed around the hotel and ate a kilo of ice cream at a self serve place.
The next day we got a flight to Montevideo, in Uruguay. A 40 minute cab ride took about 15 minutes thanks to the driver doing 140kph for some reason.
At the airport we were waiting to get a cab to the bus stop to get a bus to Punta Del Este, when Mark had the spot of the day, by seeing a bus pass by with a sign to the very town we were wanting to go! So before you knew it we were heading to Punta, which is like a mini Gold Coast. I am sad to have left Brazil. 6 weeks there in a country I fell in love with, and Im already having Brazil withdrawals. Its colder here. Like, about 15 degrees it feels like. Although its probably warmer, Im just used to 35 degrees every day. We are staying in 1949 Hostel. We got lost walking the 100m to the hostel from the bus stop. Mark is standing behind me telling me to blame the map. Ill be Switzerland .. neutral.
The hostel is cool. We have a twin room, but there are lots of fun travellers here, so I settled in for an evening of drinking and chatting, while Mark had an early night.
Mark and I are going well together. Sometimes he speaks in a language I cant understand. eg `hopefully there will be fresh fish at the hostel today' means 'hopefully some hot new chicks will check in today'. His favourite saying is 'shes not struggling'. This means the girl he is perving on is hot. And he has an unbelievable memory for movie and Seinfeld quotes. We have also developed a game where if we see someone who looks like someone famous, we say I didnt know Vladimir Putin was in Uruguay. The best one was the Jonathon Thurston lookalike here in the hostel.
Saturday, November 21, 2009
The one where there was trouble in paradise
Ah yes .. the joys of travelling without realising Brazil is hitting peak holiday season with a long weekend. More on that in a moment.
The football game Mark and I went to in Rio was amazing. A Rio team versus a Paraguayan team in the South American Cup semi final. Thank god the Rio team scored. They won 2-1. It was the most unbelievable crowd. So many flares went off at the start and we couldnt see the ground for a while! The crowd chanted and yelled the whole time. About 50,000 people there I reckon. The small crowd of opposition fans were in a little area completely separate to ours. When the Rio team scored in the final few minutes the crowd erupted and everyone was hugging and cheering. Awesome. We paid $6 each for an ice cream though. Ahhhh love being ripped off when youre a tourist. The game started at 10pm!
We strolled around Copacabana the next morning then got a bus to Angra Dos Reis where you get the ferry to Ilha Grande. I had been there on the Intrepid tour earlier, you might remember the hot young Brazilian Cristiano from earlier blogs. When we docked at the island we hit trouble, big time. A woman who spoke English told us the whole island was booked out because it was the start of a long weekend, and everyone in Brazil seemed to be coming to Ilha Grande. So I left Mark in a restaurant with our bags while I searched for a room. It took a lot of doorknocking and ´no we have no rooms´before I found a pousada with a double bed for one night. Given it was 5pm and there was no way of getting off the island till the morning, we took it. Ah yes, sleeping with my brother in a double bed. Oh well... it was better than the other option of sleeping on the beach! We had planned to stay 3 nights, but it was impossible to find any rooms. So one night it was. And it took about 5 minutes to spot Cristiano, who was on the beach looking rather gorgeous. My Portuguese is a little better than it was a month ago, so this time we were able to have a sort of conversation!
Mark and I had a beautiful swim in the ocean at sunset. A great travel moment. You just know that in a few months when we are back at work we will be wishing we were back on Ilha Grande swimming in the water. Im still not taking any of this trip for granted, because I know its 3 of the best months of my life.
We then went to a bar for a few drinks and Cristiano and a couple of his friends joined us. Mark went to sleep and I stayed out drinking for a while with Cristiano, who was very upset we werent staying longer! So was I ... ahhh oh well, such is life.
Just to ensure the travel gods were making our lives difficult, Mark and I got the ferry back to the mainland in the morning to catch a midday bus to Sao Paulo, but of course its booked out, so here we are waiting for the 3pm bus in 37 degree heat in an internet cafe with no air con. But we are still smiling, cause we are on holidays, just like everyone else in Brazil this weekend!
The football game Mark and I went to in Rio was amazing. A Rio team versus a Paraguayan team in the South American Cup semi final. Thank god the Rio team scored. They won 2-1. It was the most unbelievable crowd. So many flares went off at the start and we couldnt see the ground for a while! The crowd chanted and yelled the whole time. About 50,000 people there I reckon. The small crowd of opposition fans were in a little area completely separate to ours. When the Rio team scored in the final few minutes the crowd erupted and everyone was hugging and cheering. Awesome. We paid $6 each for an ice cream though. Ahhhh love being ripped off when youre a tourist. The game started at 10pm!
We strolled around Copacabana the next morning then got a bus to Angra Dos Reis where you get the ferry to Ilha Grande. I had been there on the Intrepid tour earlier, you might remember the hot young Brazilian Cristiano from earlier blogs. When we docked at the island we hit trouble, big time. A woman who spoke English told us the whole island was booked out because it was the start of a long weekend, and everyone in Brazil seemed to be coming to Ilha Grande. So I left Mark in a restaurant with our bags while I searched for a room. It took a lot of doorknocking and ´no we have no rooms´before I found a pousada with a double bed for one night. Given it was 5pm and there was no way of getting off the island till the morning, we took it. Ah yes, sleeping with my brother in a double bed. Oh well... it was better than the other option of sleeping on the beach! We had planned to stay 3 nights, but it was impossible to find any rooms. So one night it was. And it took about 5 minutes to spot Cristiano, who was on the beach looking rather gorgeous. My Portuguese is a little better than it was a month ago, so this time we were able to have a sort of conversation!
Mark and I had a beautiful swim in the ocean at sunset. A great travel moment. You just know that in a few months when we are back at work we will be wishing we were back on Ilha Grande swimming in the water. Im still not taking any of this trip for granted, because I know its 3 of the best months of my life.
We then went to a bar for a few drinks and Cristiano and a couple of his friends joined us. Mark went to sleep and I stayed out drinking for a while with Cristiano, who was very upset we werent staying longer! So was I ... ahhh oh well, such is life.
Just to ensure the travel gods were making our lives difficult, Mark and I got the ferry back to the mainland in the morning to catch a midday bus to Sao Paulo, but of course its booked out, so here we are waiting for the 3pm bus in 37 degree heat in an internet cafe with no air con. But we are still smiling, cause we are on holidays, just like everyone else in Brazil this weekend!
Thursday, November 19, 2009
The one where Lynne learns Portuguese for brother
No idea how to write it, but you say ´ele es me ermowng´and that means this guy is my brother, not my husband or boyfriend. Handy when you want to avoid hotel double beds with your sibling!!!!
So yes, Im now with Marky. We met up in Rio on Monday night, he flew in from Lima, I flew in from Porto Seguro. After two days its going really well! Ask me in a couple of weeks how I feel.. ha ha. No, hes good value to travel with.
Its great having someone to talk to who knows me so well, tell them about my trip so far, have company for when funny moments arise.
We have had a great couple of days in Rio. We are staying in a very nice hotel between Copacabana and Ipanema beaches. We walked Ipanema yesterday morning, bought a couple of pairs of havianas and had a coffee.
Then we did a Favela tour in the afternoon. Very interesting. The one we went to has a population of 200,000 crammed into an area about the size of a small Canberra suburb. They are all run by drug dealers, but this one is safe to visit in a tour, because the gang that runs it refuses to sell crack cocaine, so there is no crime because of fewer addicts?!?!?! And the dealers dont want to draw attention to the favelas by having crime there, so the cops leave them alone. Except like a few weeks ago when there was a shoot out at another favela, and the dealers shot down a police helicopter ...
Theres not much running water or electricity. If you want to expand your home, you just build a cement block on top of your current place. But people like the sense of community they get from favelas. As our cute guide told us, the bloke who says hi to you in the favela is the one likely to mug you in Copacabana.
I took Mark back to my favourite churrasco restaurant in the evening, and we ate like kings.
Today we did a city tour, and guess what ... perfect blue skies!!!!! Oh my god we have some awesome photos. Went on the cable car at Sugar Loaf Mountain, went to Christ the Redeemer statue, had lunch in Santa Theresa. Great day with some of the best views youll see anywhere in the world. Rio is an amazing city, high rises and favelas squashed in amongst mountains.
We got picked up in the morning by Felipe, our guide, in his little Fiat. We then had to pick up another two people and as we were waiting outside their hotel, we were so excited about who the other 2 might be ... Mark was hoping for hot Swedish chicks, I didnt mind as long as they could fit in the little Fiat.
When they came out ... worst possible .. 2 Peruvian overweight guys who spoke little English. So we all squashed inside the car for the start of the tour. Except one of them had food poisoning .. and was breaking out into massive sweats and running to the bathroom at every opportunity...
He only made it half way through the day, before getting a cab home. Which was a blessing because then there were only 4 of us to fit in the car.
Top day, and now we are off to see a football game!!!! Its at the massive stadium where 210,000 people once crammed in to see a match. I think only about 50,000 are going tonight.
So yes, Im now with Marky. We met up in Rio on Monday night, he flew in from Lima, I flew in from Porto Seguro. After two days its going really well! Ask me in a couple of weeks how I feel.. ha ha. No, hes good value to travel with.
Its great having someone to talk to who knows me so well, tell them about my trip so far, have company for when funny moments arise.
We have had a great couple of days in Rio. We are staying in a very nice hotel between Copacabana and Ipanema beaches. We walked Ipanema yesterday morning, bought a couple of pairs of havianas and had a coffee.
Then we did a Favela tour in the afternoon. Very interesting. The one we went to has a population of 200,000 crammed into an area about the size of a small Canberra suburb. They are all run by drug dealers, but this one is safe to visit in a tour, because the gang that runs it refuses to sell crack cocaine, so there is no crime because of fewer addicts?!?!?! And the dealers dont want to draw attention to the favelas by having crime there, so the cops leave them alone. Except like a few weeks ago when there was a shoot out at another favela, and the dealers shot down a police helicopter ...
Theres not much running water or electricity. If you want to expand your home, you just build a cement block on top of your current place. But people like the sense of community they get from favelas. As our cute guide told us, the bloke who says hi to you in the favela is the one likely to mug you in Copacabana.
I took Mark back to my favourite churrasco restaurant in the evening, and we ate like kings.
Today we did a city tour, and guess what ... perfect blue skies!!!!! Oh my god we have some awesome photos. Went on the cable car at Sugar Loaf Mountain, went to Christ the Redeemer statue, had lunch in Santa Theresa. Great day with some of the best views youll see anywhere in the world. Rio is an amazing city, high rises and favelas squashed in amongst mountains.
We got picked up in the morning by Felipe, our guide, in his little Fiat. We then had to pick up another two people and as we were waiting outside their hotel, we were so excited about who the other 2 might be ... Mark was hoping for hot Swedish chicks, I didnt mind as long as they could fit in the little Fiat.
When they came out ... worst possible .. 2 Peruvian overweight guys who spoke little English. So we all squashed inside the car for the start of the tour. Except one of them had food poisoning .. and was breaking out into massive sweats and running to the bathroom at every opportunity...
He only made it half way through the day, before getting a cab home. Which was a blessing because then there were only 4 of us to fit in the car.
Top day, and now we are off to see a football game!!!! Its at the massive stadium where 210,000 people once crammed in to see a match. I think only about 50,000 are going tonight.
Monday, November 16, 2009
The one where Lynne finds a street party
I had a big day in Salvador. After rising early, I hit the cobbled streets of the Pelourhino. Its the old town where artists are on every corner, its filled with music and tourists and annoying men who give you unwanted attention. That tout who took me to the pousada seemed to be everywhere .. you want a beer? you want to go to the church?...
Salvador is a great place to shop. I suddenly found myself buying lovely earrings, paintings... money I dont really have, but 7 will hopefully have freelance shifts for me when I get back to pay for all of it!
I took a taxi to a suburb called Barra, its the beach part of town. Was bloody hot, and not quite what the Lonely Planet had talked up, but still a nice place to have an empanada and walk around.
Salvador reminded me of Havana. The skin is darkest there, music is everywhere, men are a bit annoying, you need to hold on tight to your belongings. Im glad I only had 2 nights there.
That evening I was having a drink at a basic bar, where the plastic chairs spill onto the cobbled street. I got talking to two local women, who I ended up realising were hairdressers and more interested in getting me to get hair extensions than talking about anything else.
I went to the theatre that night to see an hour long show of traditional Brazilian dance. My god it was unreal. So mesmerising, and the men ... wow .. think Olympic gymnasts, athletes all rolled into one. They were incredible to watch (and not just cause of their amazing bodies). The capoeira was awesome to see.
Id bought a plane ticket to Porto Seguro the next day. Enough with the 20 hour bus travel. It was expensive for an hour flight, but so worth it. Instead of arriving tired I arrived raring to go. I got a short ferry ride to Arraial DAdjuda. Its a small beach village with a 15 minute walk down to the beach, which is lined with restaurants. You could walk the entire north east coast of Brazil and just see nothing but beautiful palm tree lined beaches.
Im staying in a youth hostel. I usually avoid them, but this one is gorgeous. The double room is one of the best Ive had. And I met my first Australian in nearly 3 weeks!!!!
Can you believe I havent found any other Aussies in this part of the world??? It must be a record for travelling I reckon. Tim is from Melbourne. I was so excited to talk to another Australian, and so was he, thatwetalkedreallyfast because finally we could speak quickly and have someone understand our accent.
I had lunch at the beach and met a smooth talking Brazilian waiter called Fabio. Ah Brazilian men, theyre so forward its ridiculous. Poor Tim complains he has no chance with the Brazilian girls cause he isnt anywhere near as brazen (so I helped by playing wingman for him later that night).
Tim, a New Yorker called Dan, and I headed into Porto Seguro for a street party. Wow. These people know how to party. A huge free open air event. The main singer didnt come on till 4am! It was such a fun night. We were allowed into a VIP area above the thousands of people dancing in the street. When we got there they had a big band playing...um not really what we were expecting, but from then on it was a bit of everything South American.
We met a few local girls, and thats where I came in to help Tim. We all danced and watched the sun come up. God getting home was long and tortuous. Waiting for the ferry, getting a mini van back.
I slept in, then went for a long walk along the beaches.
I love Arraial DAdjuda. Its been one of those oh my god how good is travelling moments for me.
Salvador is a great place to shop. I suddenly found myself buying lovely earrings, paintings... money I dont really have, but 7 will hopefully have freelance shifts for me when I get back to pay for all of it!
I took a taxi to a suburb called Barra, its the beach part of town. Was bloody hot, and not quite what the Lonely Planet had talked up, but still a nice place to have an empanada and walk around.
Salvador reminded me of Havana. The skin is darkest there, music is everywhere, men are a bit annoying, you need to hold on tight to your belongings. Im glad I only had 2 nights there.
That evening I was having a drink at a basic bar, where the plastic chairs spill onto the cobbled street. I got talking to two local women, who I ended up realising were hairdressers and more interested in getting me to get hair extensions than talking about anything else.
I went to the theatre that night to see an hour long show of traditional Brazilian dance. My god it was unreal. So mesmerising, and the men ... wow .. think Olympic gymnasts, athletes all rolled into one. They were incredible to watch (and not just cause of their amazing bodies). The capoeira was awesome to see.
Id bought a plane ticket to Porto Seguro the next day. Enough with the 20 hour bus travel. It was expensive for an hour flight, but so worth it. Instead of arriving tired I arrived raring to go. I got a short ferry ride to Arraial DAdjuda. Its a small beach village with a 15 minute walk down to the beach, which is lined with restaurants. You could walk the entire north east coast of Brazil and just see nothing but beautiful palm tree lined beaches.
Im staying in a youth hostel. I usually avoid them, but this one is gorgeous. The double room is one of the best Ive had. And I met my first Australian in nearly 3 weeks!!!!
Can you believe I havent found any other Aussies in this part of the world??? It must be a record for travelling I reckon. Tim is from Melbourne. I was so excited to talk to another Australian, and so was he, thatwetalkedreallyfast because finally we could speak quickly and have someone understand our accent.
I had lunch at the beach and met a smooth talking Brazilian waiter called Fabio. Ah Brazilian men, theyre so forward its ridiculous. Poor Tim complains he has no chance with the Brazilian girls cause he isnt anywhere near as brazen (so I helped by playing wingman for him later that night).
Tim, a New Yorker called Dan, and I headed into Porto Seguro for a street party. Wow. These people know how to party. A huge free open air event. The main singer didnt come on till 4am! It was such a fun night. We were allowed into a VIP area above the thousands of people dancing in the street. When we got there they had a big band playing...um not really what we were expecting, but from then on it was a bit of everything South American.
We met a few local girls, and thats where I came in to help Tim. We all danced and watched the sun come up. God getting home was long and tortuous. Waiting for the ferry, getting a mini van back.
I slept in, then went for a long walk along the beaches.
I love Arraial DAdjuda. Its been one of those oh my god how good is travelling moments for me.
Friday, November 13, 2009
The one where Lynne returns to reality
So my two weeks in Brazilian beach paradise has ended. I ended up staying in Praia Da Pipa for 6 nights. I met some local guys and hung out with them for a couple of days.
On my final day at the beach I felt like a local .. saying hi to various people Id met over the past week. It was nice to just chill out this past fortnight in Jeri and Pipa. Go to the same places for lunch, get to see how the locals live their lives.
I met a surf instructor, Rodrigo, last Saturday in a bar. He spoke good English and we ended up hanging out with his mates. These guys live the most simple life.
They seriously live day by day. No bank accounts, no tv, no ipods, no email, phones with no credit.
I shouted them food and drinks. Yes, I know, I was sucked in by their stories of poverty. But it was also fun hanging out with them, learning a bit more Portuguese, seeing how locals live as opposed to just seeing the tourists side of Pipa.
Rodrigo took me to a lovely village to watch the sun set, and he gave me a surf lesson. I caught one wave! Just quietly he was a terrible instructor. I spent about 5 minutes on the beach learning how to surf, then he just pushed my board onto waves until I managed to stand, and eventually sort of catch a very very small wave, all the while giving me very little feedback! No wonder he isnt making any money from his job.
One night we had a pool party, sponsored of course by the Bank Of Lynne. They were nice guys, although by the end of it I was sick of reaching into my wallet.
So I decided I really needed to hit the road again. And hit it I did. 20 hours on a bus from Pipa to Salvador.....aghhhhh.
The bus was fine, and I got a lot of sleep, but after arriving in Salvador this afternoon, Im still tired.
And its weird being back in a big city. Noise, people staring at you, the need to hold onto your belongings tightly again...
Ive already got cranky with one tout who took me to a pousada, then followed me around the streets telling me his sob story about being homeless and can I buy him food and a drink. A week ago I wouldve helped him, but Ive done enough of that the past week.
Salvador seems nice enough. But a little seedy. Still its only been a couple of hours so early days.
On my final day at the beach I felt like a local .. saying hi to various people Id met over the past week. It was nice to just chill out this past fortnight in Jeri and Pipa. Go to the same places for lunch, get to see how the locals live their lives.
I met a surf instructor, Rodrigo, last Saturday in a bar. He spoke good English and we ended up hanging out with his mates. These guys live the most simple life.
They seriously live day by day. No bank accounts, no tv, no ipods, no email, phones with no credit.
I shouted them food and drinks. Yes, I know, I was sucked in by their stories of poverty. But it was also fun hanging out with them, learning a bit more Portuguese, seeing how locals live as opposed to just seeing the tourists side of Pipa.
Rodrigo took me to a lovely village to watch the sun set, and he gave me a surf lesson. I caught one wave! Just quietly he was a terrible instructor. I spent about 5 minutes on the beach learning how to surf, then he just pushed my board onto waves until I managed to stand, and eventually sort of catch a very very small wave, all the while giving me very little feedback! No wonder he isnt making any money from his job.
One night we had a pool party, sponsored of course by the Bank Of Lynne. They were nice guys, although by the end of it I was sick of reaching into my wallet.
So I decided I really needed to hit the road again. And hit it I did. 20 hours on a bus from Pipa to Salvador.....aghhhhh.
The bus was fine, and I got a lot of sleep, but after arriving in Salvador this afternoon, Im still tired.
And its weird being back in a big city. Noise, people staring at you, the need to hold onto your belongings tightly again...
Ive already got cranky with one tout who took me to a pousada, then followed me around the streets telling me his sob story about being homeless and can I buy him food and a drink. A week ago I wouldve helped him, but Ive done enough of that the past week.
Salvador seems nice enough. But a little seedy. Still its only been a couple of hours so early days.
Sunday, November 8, 2009
The one where Lynne swam with dolphins
Its only been 24 hours, but I feel it necessary to update the blog after the last depressing entry!
I was quite sick yesterday, and shouldnt have been writing in that state. I slept through lunch, then slept through dinner, and through the night.
It still felt like I was swallowing razor blades this morning, but my body didnt ache as much as yesterday.
The other health problem I had yesterday was a sore on my foot, id hurt it walking in bare feet a few days ago and was worried something was in it, so used my tweezers and nail clippers to poke around. Remember the last time I poked around at a sore I ended up in a London hospital for 5 days while doctors operated twice to remove the absyss it had turned into ... you can understand my fears!
So this morning I dragged my sorry arse down to the beach, hoping salt water would lift my spirits and help my health.
I walked to the Bay Of Dolphins, because yes, dolphins like to hang out there, just like people.
I went for a swim and just as I was marvelling at the wonders of the ocean to make you feel better, a couple of dolphins popped their heads up a few metres from me. I smiled for what seemed the first time in 48 hours. Finally I was cheering up!
So I had a lovely day, washed away my sore throat and sore foot (it seems to be healing ok) while relaxing on a banana bed I rented, and going for swims with dolphins.
I was quite sick yesterday, and shouldnt have been writing in that state. I slept through lunch, then slept through dinner, and through the night.
It still felt like I was swallowing razor blades this morning, but my body didnt ache as much as yesterday.
The other health problem I had yesterday was a sore on my foot, id hurt it walking in bare feet a few days ago and was worried something was in it, so used my tweezers and nail clippers to poke around. Remember the last time I poked around at a sore I ended up in a London hospital for 5 days while doctors operated twice to remove the absyss it had turned into ... you can understand my fears!
So this morning I dragged my sorry arse down to the beach, hoping salt water would lift my spirits and help my health.
I walked to the Bay Of Dolphins, because yes, dolphins like to hang out there, just like people.
I went for a swim and just as I was marvelling at the wonders of the ocean to make you feel better, a couple of dolphins popped their heads up a few metres from me. I smiled for what seemed the first time in 48 hours. Finally I was cheering up!
So I had a lovely day, washed away my sore throat and sore foot (it seems to be healing ok) while relaxing on a banana bed I rented, and going for swims with dolphins.
Saturday, November 7, 2009
The one where Lynne hits the halfway point
Can you believe Im half way through the 3 month trip? 6 1/2 weeks down. In some ways I feel like `god its only been 6 weeks, but Ive done so much!`and other ways I feel `oh my god there are only 6 weeks to go before I go home!`
I left Jeri reluctantly... but was running out of cash so the time had come to end my total-relaxation-and-splurge week. Jeri is so remote it doesnt have any ATMS, so you have to take whatever cash you need with you. Id already spent 3 days longer there than planned. After meeting a cute Brazilian guy on my second last night I considered extending it further, but thought Id better hit the road again. And I have a feeling he stood me up on the last night of my stay there anyway (no one makes definite plans in Jeri. So when you say Ill see you tonight .. that could be anytime between 9pm and 2am. Needless to say there was only so much time I could spend on my own waiting at a bar).
So I left Jeri yesterday, and it took 12 hours of a 4WD, bus, plane, taxi to get to my next destination of Praia Da Pipa, further down Brazils north east coast. It cost a lot to do it that way, but otherwise I would have risked arriving in a big city not far from here late at night on a bus, with no accommodation booked. As a solo female traveller there are some things its better to spend money on, and getting somewhere safely is one of them.
It was a crappy day. I was feeling down, and getting sick.
So now Im in Pipa with a sore throat. Have stocked up on lozenges after using mime to show the pharmacist what was hurting. I would be getting a lot more out of Brazil if I could speak Portugese. English isnt widely spoken at all, and sometimes its frustrating .. but completely my fault. Im already dreaming up ways to learn the language, and be back here for the Football World Cup and Olympics .. either working or as a tourist. Because regardless of how down this blog entry seems, I still do really love Brazil! The people are really friendly. Like the woman in Rio who said to me ´welcome to rio´as I walked along a footpath. They are very passionate people who love their country. Its a lot like Australia, in terms of scenery, food, costs, lifestyle.
Pipa is another nice beach town, not as chilled as Jeri though. Its set on a cliff, and you walk down steps to the beaches. I took a long walk on the beaches today, saw dolphins in one of the bays, and had ice cream for lunch and afternoon tea. Sore throat is my excuse....
I also had a 3 hour nap, so I guess Im not feeling well!
Ive downgraded my accommodation after a week of staying in a gorgeous pousada in Jeri. Now im paying a third of the price, but the room is still ok.
I left Jeri reluctantly... but was running out of cash so the time had come to end my total-relaxation-and-splurge week. Jeri is so remote it doesnt have any ATMS, so you have to take whatever cash you need with you. Id already spent 3 days longer there than planned. After meeting a cute Brazilian guy on my second last night I considered extending it further, but thought Id better hit the road again. And I have a feeling he stood me up on the last night of my stay there anyway (no one makes definite plans in Jeri. So when you say Ill see you tonight .. that could be anytime between 9pm and 2am. Needless to say there was only so much time I could spend on my own waiting at a bar).
So I left Jeri yesterday, and it took 12 hours of a 4WD, bus, plane, taxi to get to my next destination of Praia Da Pipa, further down Brazils north east coast. It cost a lot to do it that way, but otherwise I would have risked arriving in a big city not far from here late at night on a bus, with no accommodation booked. As a solo female traveller there are some things its better to spend money on, and getting somewhere safely is one of them.
It was a crappy day. I was feeling down, and getting sick.
So now Im in Pipa with a sore throat. Have stocked up on lozenges after using mime to show the pharmacist what was hurting. I would be getting a lot more out of Brazil if I could speak Portugese. English isnt widely spoken at all, and sometimes its frustrating .. but completely my fault. Im already dreaming up ways to learn the language, and be back here for the Football World Cup and Olympics .. either working or as a tourist. Because regardless of how down this blog entry seems, I still do really love Brazil! The people are really friendly. Like the woman in Rio who said to me ´welcome to rio´as I walked along a footpath. They are very passionate people who love their country. Its a lot like Australia, in terms of scenery, food, costs, lifestyle.
Pipa is another nice beach town, not as chilled as Jeri though. Its set on a cliff, and you walk down steps to the beaches. I took a long walk on the beaches today, saw dolphins in one of the bays, and had ice cream for lunch and afternoon tea. Sore throat is my excuse....
I also had a 3 hour nap, so I guess Im not feeling well!
Ive downgraded my accommodation after a week of staying in a gorgeous pousada in Jeri. Now im paying a third of the price, but the room is still ok.
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
The one where Im so relaxed I cant think of a title
So Ive been in Jeri a week now. A week doing nothing. What does nothing involve? Well a normal day would be to get up at 9am, put on my Jeri uniform of swimmers and denim cut offs, then have breakfast in the hotel. Thats fresh squeezed juice, a white bread roll, ham and cheese, coffee and cake. Brazilians love cake for breakfast.
Then Ill go for a couple of hours walk on the beach, then go back to the hotel to laze by the pool reading my book.
At about 2 Ill go to Casa Das Trufas, a nice place for lunch. That might be a hamburger, or chicken salad, or tuna sandwiche. After that its either another walk on the beach, or back to the hotel for a swim in the pool.
Then its nap time at about 4 or 5pm.
I struggle to occupy my time between about 6 and 9. No one has dinner before 9. Sometimes I use the internet, like now, other times Ill walk around the shops, or have a drink.
Steve has been kite surfing with a Kiwi guy called Vince. The other day Christina (Steves girlfriend) and I hopped on their buggy and went with them for the afternoon. The girls staying in the buggy watching the guys make their way downwind along the beach for a couple of hours.
We met up for dinner that night at a restaurant run by a South African, who wanted to stay in Jeri with his pregnant girlfriend for a few months. They found an empty shop front, and within a week had turned it into a restaurant! Imagine the bureaucracy if that happened anywhere else. They serve cheap food like chicken and potatoes and coleslaw.
Vince, his Canadian friend Mark and I then went to a bar that was having an open air party with a live band. So I stayed up past midnight for once! And I learned the wind dies down completely at night.
Sorry if this is a little less than interesting blog, but this week has been all about doing nothing! Is so good to not have to pack up that bloody backpack every couple of days, but at the same time Im also looking forward to hitting the road again and seeing what else Brazil has to offer.
Then Ill go for a couple of hours walk on the beach, then go back to the hotel to laze by the pool reading my book.
At about 2 Ill go to Casa Das Trufas, a nice place for lunch. That might be a hamburger, or chicken salad, or tuna sandwiche. After that its either another walk on the beach, or back to the hotel for a swim in the pool.
Then its nap time at about 4 or 5pm.
I struggle to occupy my time between about 6 and 9. No one has dinner before 9. Sometimes I use the internet, like now, other times Ill walk around the shops, or have a drink.
Steve has been kite surfing with a Kiwi guy called Vince. The other day Christina (Steves girlfriend) and I hopped on their buggy and went with them for the afternoon. The girls staying in the buggy watching the guys make their way downwind along the beach for a couple of hours.
We met up for dinner that night at a restaurant run by a South African, who wanted to stay in Jeri with his pregnant girlfriend for a few months. They found an empty shop front, and within a week had turned it into a restaurant! Imagine the bureaucracy if that happened anywhere else. They serve cheap food like chicken and potatoes and coleslaw.
Vince, his Canadian friend Mark and I then went to a bar that was having an open air party with a live band. So I stayed up past midnight for once! And I learned the wind dies down completely at night.
Sorry if this is a little less than interesting blog, but this week has been all about doing nothing! Is so good to not have to pack up that bloody backpack every couple of days, but at the same time Im also looking forward to hitting the road again and seeing what else Brazil has to offer.
Sunday, November 1, 2009
The one where paradise is extended
The Lonely Planet says most tourists who come to Jeri stay longer than planned. Ive extended my stay to 8 nights. Its so remote I may never come back, so whats the point in rushing away?
The lovely pousada I was staying in the first 3 nights was booked out over the weekend. I think its a long weekend in Brazil. I spent a good hour wandering into every pousada asking in bad Portugese if they had a room for the weekend. I found another not-as-nice-but-still-ok place for 2 nights, then Im back to my favourite pousada on Monday.
Just to keep my dream like life in perspective, its not alllllll perfection here in Jeri.
For instance, switching hotels yesterday was a nightmare! There are no taxis in Jeri, its all soft sand. I thought I knew where my new pousada was, but got totally disoriented. In 36 degree heat, in soft sand, carrying 20kgs of luggage around, for half an hour. God I sweated up a storm...
And Jeri is so special, you want to share it with your friends, or a boyfriend. There arent many solo travellers here. Lots of couples, lots of groups of friends. I was getting a bit lonely. I wanted to go on a dune buggy or quad bike to see the surrounding dunes and lagoons, but it was going to cost heaps to hire a driver on my own. But I woke up this morning and thought, bugger it, just go do it, even though it would be quite boring on my own with a driver who cant speak English.
But just as I started walking through the village, I bumped into Christina and Steve, who id met on the first day here. They asked me to join them tomorrow on a buggy excursion, and we are meeting up for dinner tonight. Yay!!!! I have friends again. I couldnt find them last night when I went out for dinner (no they werent hiding from me....)
Speaking of nightlife, Im yet to really embrace the late nights here. No one goes out for dinner till after 9, and the nightlife doesnt kick in till after midnight. So far Ive been in bed by midnight every night! There are no real bars. Jeri is sooo chilled, the party place is a series of stalls on the beach, selling drinks. So everyone just stands around them. No toilets or seats. Am I sounding really old now???????
Oh, and I finally joined the Skype revolution. Everyone travelling here is on it, and I realise why now. Its amazing. So cheap. Spoke to mum and dad for the first time in 6 weeks, for half an hour for less than a dollar! Then called Jane, but naturally she doesnt answer calls from unknown numbers, so i had to email her blackberry, tell her it was me trying to call, then called her back. The wonders of technology. To think my first trip overseas in 1991 had no email, and the phone calls involved a horrible 5 sec delay!
The lovely pousada I was staying in the first 3 nights was booked out over the weekend. I think its a long weekend in Brazil. I spent a good hour wandering into every pousada asking in bad Portugese if they had a room for the weekend. I found another not-as-nice-but-still-ok place for 2 nights, then Im back to my favourite pousada on Monday.
Just to keep my dream like life in perspective, its not alllllll perfection here in Jeri.
For instance, switching hotels yesterday was a nightmare! There are no taxis in Jeri, its all soft sand. I thought I knew where my new pousada was, but got totally disoriented. In 36 degree heat, in soft sand, carrying 20kgs of luggage around, for half an hour. God I sweated up a storm...
And Jeri is so special, you want to share it with your friends, or a boyfriend. There arent many solo travellers here. Lots of couples, lots of groups of friends. I was getting a bit lonely. I wanted to go on a dune buggy or quad bike to see the surrounding dunes and lagoons, but it was going to cost heaps to hire a driver on my own. But I woke up this morning and thought, bugger it, just go do it, even though it would be quite boring on my own with a driver who cant speak English.
But just as I started walking through the village, I bumped into Christina and Steve, who id met on the first day here. They asked me to join them tomorrow on a buggy excursion, and we are meeting up for dinner tonight. Yay!!!! I have friends again. I couldnt find them last night when I went out for dinner (no they werent hiding from me....)
Speaking of nightlife, Im yet to really embrace the late nights here. No one goes out for dinner till after 9, and the nightlife doesnt kick in till after midnight. So far Ive been in bed by midnight every night! There are no real bars. Jeri is sooo chilled, the party place is a series of stalls on the beach, selling drinks. So everyone just stands around them. No toilets or seats. Am I sounding really old now???????
Oh, and I finally joined the Skype revolution. Everyone travelling here is on it, and I realise why now. Its amazing. So cheap. Spoke to mum and dad for the first time in 6 weeks, for half an hour for less than a dollar! Then called Jane, but naturally she doesnt answer calls from unknown numbers, so i had to email her blackberry, tell her it was me trying to call, then called her back. The wonders of technology. To think my first trip overseas in 1991 had no email, and the phone calls involved a horrible 5 sec delay!
Saturday, October 31, 2009
The one where Lynne found paradise
Yes I am in paradise, but had a travel low point to get here.
I was staying in Rio for an extra night, after the tour finished, before flying here to Jericoacoara on Brazils far north east coast.
A girl on the tour, had already booked her extra night through Intrepid at home. Once at the hotel, she realised she had paid an extortionate amount of money for the room, almost double what the rate was.
So she suggested I sneakily stay in her room the extra night, and go halves with her. I didnt want to, it was of no financial benefit to me, but I agreed because Im a believer in travel karma, and wanted to be nice.
So there I was, a 35 year old who earned good money, sneaking around the hotel pretending I had checked out. I even carried a girls backpack out to look like I had left.
And I had a barely single bed to sleep in, while she had the double....
At 3.30am the next morning I was due to get a transfer to the airport.
The night manager made me check my name off the list, and our game was up. So I had to pay an extra 40 reais (about $30).
Then I waited for my taxi ... and waited and waited. The hotel manager offered to call a cab, but then seemed unable to get through. So with time ticking away, at 4am I was stressed and angry, and grabbed my backpack and started walking to the end of the street to find my own cab. At 4am ... in dodgy Rio De Janeiro.... after hearing loud sounds and whistles not far away (it turned out to be boys playing soccer).
Luckily a nicer hotel was up the street, with a cab waiting and a lovely concierge who organised the cost of the fare. Still, I wasnt happy Jan at suddenly forking out all this extra cash before the sun had come up.
Ahhhh but now Im in Jeri and all that is a distant memory. It took a 5 hour flight and a 5 hour 4WD trip to get here. But soooo worth it.
The Lonely Planet calls Jeri a truly special place, and the LP got it right. Its paradise.
Its so remote I feel like im on the corner of the earth.
The sand street village is surrounded by sand dunes, so only 4WDS can access it. Its small but has heaps of great restaurants and shops. The only real problem is the wind. Its a kite surfing capital of the world, so there is lots of wind all the time!
When I arrived I had no accommodation booked. The driver took me to this great pousada, overlooking the dunes. So Im splurging. Its about $80 a night (a lot for an unemployed backpacker). But I have a roof top balcony all to myself. And theres a pool. I had planned on staying 5 nights, but ive booked 8.
After all that overland travel its so good to get settled in one place, and just chill.
I met an Irish guy called Steve, who lives in Spain with his Spanish girlfriend Christina, in the 4WD on the way here. Lovely people. Last night we went to an amazing restaurant. It had plastic chairs and tables outside, and a man cooking fish on a bbq. It was packed, so we knew it was going to be good.
I know I rave on and on about the Brazilian food, but the fish was unbelievable. You pick your own from eskies, and he cooks it on the bbq. Melt in your mouth fish, washed down with a capirinha and rice and salad. Awesome.
Steve, Christina and I speak Spanglish. Its great to practice my Spanish with them, and learn the finer points of the language. Although they speak Spain Spanish, which is a little different to Latin America Spanish (like they pronounce gracias GRATH-E-ASS, while in South America its GRASSY-ASS). And Brazilians only speak Portugese, so its getting complicated!
Sunset involves a walk up the highest dune to watch the sun go down. There are stalls set up at night selling alcohol on the street. As I wondered around, capirinha in hand, I thought ... this is it. This is what life is all about. Although it would be nicer if someone was here to share this with!
I was staying in Rio for an extra night, after the tour finished, before flying here to Jericoacoara on Brazils far north east coast.
A girl on the tour, had already booked her extra night through Intrepid at home. Once at the hotel, she realised she had paid an extortionate amount of money for the room, almost double what the rate was.
So she suggested I sneakily stay in her room the extra night, and go halves with her. I didnt want to, it was of no financial benefit to me, but I agreed because Im a believer in travel karma, and wanted to be nice.
So there I was, a 35 year old who earned good money, sneaking around the hotel pretending I had checked out. I even carried a girls backpack out to look like I had left.
And I had a barely single bed to sleep in, while she had the double....
At 3.30am the next morning I was due to get a transfer to the airport.
The night manager made me check my name off the list, and our game was up. So I had to pay an extra 40 reais (about $30).
Then I waited for my taxi ... and waited and waited. The hotel manager offered to call a cab, but then seemed unable to get through. So with time ticking away, at 4am I was stressed and angry, and grabbed my backpack and started walking to the end of the street to find my own cab. At 4am ... in dodgy Rio De Janeiro.... after hearing loud sounds and whistles not far away (it turned out to be boys playing soccer).
Luckily a nicer hotel was up the street, with a cab waiting and a lovely concierge who organised the cost of the fare. Still, I wasnt happy Jan at suddenly forking out all this extra cash before the sun had come up.
Ahhhh but now Im in Jeri and all that is a distant memory. It took a 5 hour flight and a 5 hour 4WD trip to get here. But soooo worth it.
The Lonely Planet calls Jeri a truly special place, and the LP got it right. Its paradise.
Its so remote I feel like im on the corner of the earth.
The sand street village is surrounded by sand dunes, so only 4WDS can access it. Its small but has heaps of great restaurants and shops. The only real problem is the wind. Its a kite surfing capital of the world, so there is lots of wind all the time!
When I arrived I had no accommodation booked. The driver took me to this great pousada, overlooking the dunes. So Im splurging. Its about $80 a night (a lot for an unemployed backpacker). But I have a roof top balcony all to myself. And theres a pool. I had planned on staying 5 nights, but ive booked 8.
After all that overland travel its so good to get settled in one place, and just chill.
I met an Irish guy called Steve, who lives in Spain with his Spanish girlfriend Christina, in the 4WD on the way here. Lovely people. Last night we went to an amazing restaurant. It had plastic chairs and tables outside, and a man cooking fish on a bbq. It was packed, so we knew it was going to be good.
I know I rave on and on about the Brazilian food, but the fish was unbelievable. You pick your own from eskies, and he cooks it on the bbq. Melt in your mouth fish, washed down with a capirinha and rice and salad. Awesome.
Steve, Christina and I speak Spanglish. Its great to practice my Spanish with them, and learn the finer points of the language. Although they speak Spain Spanish, which is a little different to Latin America Spanish (like they pronounce gracias GRATH-E-ASS, while in South America its GRASSY-ASS). And Brazilians only speak Portugese, so its getting complicated!
Sunset involves a walk up the highest dune to watch the sun go down. There are stalls set up at night selling alcohol on the street. As I wondered around, capirinha in hand, I thought ... this is it. This is what life is all about. Although it would be nicer if someone was here to share this with!
Thursday, October 29, 2009
The one where Lynne channelled Barry Manilow
At the Copa, Copacabana....where music and passion is always the fashion... Sorry if the song lyrics are wrong, but dont forget Im the girl who for years believed Midnight Oil sang `You asked for forgiveness` when they were actually singing `US Forces Get The Nod`....
Anyway, let me back track.
Paraty is a lovely old Portugese colonial town with cobbled streets and cute architecture. But the rain has been falling every day pretty much since we reached Brazil, and it meant we decided not to go cycling up to a waterfall, and just walked around town.
That night Mimi our leader sang at the Che Bar, named in honour of yes, Che Guevera. It was a fun night. I tried once again to learn samba, with little coordination.
The next day we headed by bus to Ilha Grande, an island an hour by boat off the coast. As soon as we arrived I was in a happy place. Finally, after weeks of roughing it we were in my territory ... beach and bars and sandy streets and a very cute pousada (hotel), where I stayed in a loft above where Michelle and Rody were sleeping.
I had a yummy meal of chicken with passionfruit sauce, then we hit a bar, where I locked eyes with a cute young Brazilian. We danced together at a discoteque, and because mum and dad read this, lets just say i kissed him goodnight after a lovely night dancing together.
We had 3 nights on the island, which was a great way to unwind after so many long travel days. I met up with young Christiano again the following night at the discoteque, after yet another scumptious meal on the beach. This time beef skewers.
Michelle, Rody, Mimi and I took a walk on the island. We had to cross a creek, and Rody went first. It was then my Haviana Rescue Operation took place. She lost one of her thongs, and we all know how important Havianas are to Sydney girls. So without thinking I dumped my handbag, and jumped in the creek to save the thong. But the rocks were really slippery and the water fast flowing, so i took a massive stack. Blood pouring down the knees, and I had cuts and scratches. Roger, the 58 year old NZ used car salesman in the group, accused them of being carpet burns, which i vehemently denied.
After saying goodbye to the island, and Christiano, we headed to Rio.
Unfortunately we had cloud, rain and mist. The tour in the afternoon included a trip up the mountain to see Christ the Redeemer. I saw his feet. His head was above the clouds, which i guess is where Christ should be.
I skipped the Sugar Loaf Mountain cable car, because it was covered in mist. Hopefully Mark and I will have better weather when we meet there in 3 weeks.
We had the yummiest churrasco meal that night though. All you can eat meat and salad. It was our final group night together.
Now I come to one of those humiliating experiences which most people wouldnt speak about, but what the hell.
I was sharing a hotel room with Rody (also from Sydney). She told me one of the guys was going to store his bag in our room that day. Ill call him Daniel...thats not his real name. I took a shower, then realised I didnt bring underwear or any clothes into the bathroom. I stick my head out the door, the coast is clear. So wearing only a t shirt (no underwear) i start to duck across the room. Then Daniel walks in. At that exact moment. Daniel is the only straight single guy on the tour. But its his first time travelling overseas, he is 29 going on 18, quite awkward and unconfident. Oh god the humiliation, anger and embarassment!!!!! He awkardly leaves the room while i scramble to pull down my t shirt and put shorts on.
The girls in the group had a big belly laugh when i told them though.
Anyway, let me back track.
Paraty is a lovely old Portugese colonial town with cobbled streets and cute architecture. But the rain has been falling every day pretty much since we reached Brazil, and it meant we decided not to go cycling up to a waterfall, and just walked around town.
That night Mimi our leader sang at the Che Bar, named in honour of yes, Che Guevera. It was a fun night. I tried once again to learn samba, with little coordination.
The next day we headed by bus to Ilha Grande, an island an hour by boat off the coast. As soon as we arrived I was in a happy place. Finally, after weeks of roughing it we were in my territory ... beach and bars and sandy streets and a very cute pousada (hotel), where I stayed in a loft above where Michelle and Rody were sleeping.
I had a yummy meal of chicken with passionfruit sauce, then we hit a bar, where I locked eyes with a cute young Brazilian. We danced together at a discoteque, and because mum and dad read this, lets just say i kissed him goodnight after a lovely night dancing together.
We had 3 nights on the island, which was a great way to unwind after so many long travel days. I met up with young Christiano again the following night at the discoteque, after yet another scumptious meal on the beach. This time beef skewers.
Michelle, Rody, Mimi and I took a walk on the island. We had to cross a creek, and Rody went first. It was then my Haviana Rescue Operation took place. She lost one of her thongs, and we all know how important Havianas are to Sydney girls. So without thinking I dumped my handbag, and jumped in the creek to save the thong. But the rocks were really slippery and the water fast flowing, so i took a massive stack. Blood pouring down the knees, and I had cuts and scratches. Roger, the 58 year old NZ used car salesman in the group, accused them of being carpet burns, which i vehemently denied.
After saying goodbye to the island, and Christiano, we headed to Rio.
Unfortunately we had cloud, rain and mist. The tour in the afternoon included a trip up the mountain to see Christ the Redeemer. I saw his feet. His head was above the clouds, which i guess is where Christ should be.
I skipped the Sugar Loaf Mountain cable car, because it was covered in mist. Hopefully Mark and I will have better weather when we meet there in 3 weeks.
We had the yummiest churrasco meal that night though. All you can eat meat and salad. It was our final group night together.
Now I come to one of those humiliating experiences which most people wouldnt speak about, but what the hell.
I was sharing a hotel room with Rody (also from Sydney). She told me one of the guys was going to store his bag in our room that day. Ill call him Daniel...thats not his real name. I took a shower, then realised I didnt bring underwear or any clothes into the bathroom. I stick my head out the door, the coast is clear. So wearing only a t shirt (no underwear) i start to duck across the room. Then Daniel walks in. At that exact moment. Daniel is the only straight single guy on the tour. But its his first time travelling overseas, he is 29 going on 18, quite awkward and unconfident. Oh god the humiliation, anger and embarassment!!!!! He awkardly leaves the room while i scramble to pull down my t shirt and put shorts on.
The girls in the group had a big belly laugh when i told them though.
Friday, October 23, 2009
The one where travel isnt always fun
One minute Im snorkelling down a Brazil river full of fish, the next Im on an overnight mini bus trip. Thats right ... a mini bus with no reclining seats and 14 people packed in like sardines.
Ahhh...the joys of South American travel on a budget.
So everyone goes to Bonito to snorkel this amazing river. Its on a giant cattle farm, and Brazil tourism officials convinced the farmers to turn it into a tourist destination. Theyve done it really well, its ecologically sustainable. Limited numbers of snorkellers per day, even per hour. You cant wear suncream or insect repellant so there are no chemicals in the river.
The water is 100% clear, its shallow too so all the fish are up close to you. We spent two hours floating down the river, seeing giant fish. It was fantastic.
But then we had the overnight mini bus to Iguazu Falls. Not much sleep, and arrived at the hotel at 6.30am so we had 3 hours sleep then before heading to the Brazil side of the falls. It was pouring rain, misty and foggy.... so the views were limited. But oh my god the water was incredible. So much water, even Mimi our tour leader was amazed. Its been raining there for 2 months straight, so the volume of water is 3 times what it is normally.
And the buffet lunch at the falls was amazing too. Brazil loves their buffets, and the food is sensational. I wont be coming home any skinnier. Fruit, vegies, meat, desserts...
We had dinner at a cool restaurant that night where I discovered a Brazilian beer called Brahma which is my new fave. Very sweet.
The next day the rain cleared ...YAY!!!! for the Argentinian side of the falls. Thats where you go on the boat right up to the falls, and you can go on lovely walks with amazing views. So we all got some great photos and the boat ride was heaps of fun.
But that night meant ANOTHER overnight bus. Thank god this one was a proper coach with reclining seats. But it broke down at 2am and we had to wait for a new one to pick us up. All up we travelled 24 hours on the bus, with a 5 hour stopover in Sao Paulo. I was always afraid of Sao Paulo ... a city with Australias population and a bad reputation for crime. But Mimi is from Sao Paulo, and took us to a great part of the city where there was an amazing food market. I could have eaten there all day. Meat sandwich, incredible fresh fruit, ice cream, chocolate... you get the picture.
I liked Sao Paulo. Its the kind of city where one block is a crazy market place where you hold onto your bag tight, and next is the financial district where the rich do their business.
Finally we reached our destination of Paraty. A lovely town on the coast with cobbled streets and cool architecture.
Ahhh...the joys of South American travel on a budget.
So everyone goes to Bonito to snorkel this amazing river. Its on a giant cattle farm, and Brazil tourism officials convinced the farmers to turn it into a tourist destination. Theyve done it really well, its ecologically sustainable. Limited numbers of snorkellers per day, even per hour. You cant wear suncream or insect repellant so there are no chemicals in the river.
The water is 100% clear, its shallow too so all the fish are up close to you. We spent two hours floating down the river, seeing giant fish. It was fantastic.
But then we had the overnight mini bus to Iguazu Falls. Not much sleep, and arrived at the hotel at 6.30am so we had 3 hours sleep then before heading to the Brazil side of the falls. It was pouring rain, misty and foggy.... so the views were limited. But oh my god the water was incredible. So much water, even Mimi our tour leader was amazed. Its been raining there for 2 months straight, so the volume of water is 3 times what it is normally.
And the buffet lunch at the falls was amazing too. Brazil loves their buffets, and the food is sensational. I wont be coming home any skinnier. Fruit, vegies, meat, desserts...
We had dinner at a cool restaurant that night where I discovered a Brazilian beer called Brahma which is my new fave. Very sweet.
The next day the rain cleared ...YAY!!!! for the Argentinian side of the falls. Thats where you go on the boat right up to the falls, and you can go on lovely walks with amazing views. So we all got some great photos and the boat ride was heaps of fun.
But that night meant ANOTHER overnight bus. Thank god this one was a proper coach with reclining seats. But it broke down at 2am and we had to wait for a new one to pick us up. All up we travelled 24 hours on the bus, with a 5 hour stopover in Sao Paulo. I was always afraid of Sao Paulo ... a city with Australias population and a bad reputation for crime. But Mimi is from Sao Paulo, and took us to a great part of the city where there was an amazing food market. I could have eaten there all day. Meat sandwich, incredible fresh fruit, ice cream, chocolate... you get the picture.
I liked Sao Paulo. Its the kind of city where one block is a crazy market place where you hold onto your bag tight, and next is the financial district where the rich do their business.
Finally we reached our destination of Paraty. A lovely town on the coast with cobbled streets and cool architecture.
Sunday, October 18, 2009
The one where Lynne nearly missed the Death Train
Bear with me, this is gunna be a long blog, so feel free to log off at any time!
Mimi, our tour leader, held a briefing on our final night in Bolivia. We were staying in a cool town called Santa Cruz. She told us to be ready to leave the hotel at 10.45 the next morning, because the train departs at midday, and we have to be there an hour early.
So I wake up early the next morning. ´Cool, be ready at 11.45´ I think to myself as I head out alone to explore the city on foot.
You can see where this is going.
So at 11.15 I arrive back at the hotel, ask the manager for my key and go upstairs to pack. I look at my watch a little later. ´Oh crap my watch has stopped´. I pelt downstairs and ask what the time is. Its 11.35. `No problem, Ive got another 10 minutes´. But then start to wonder where the other 10 people in my tour are....oh they must have just left early or gone to Santa Cruz Zoo I thought.
Back upstairs, my room phone rings and the manager is saying something in Spanish I cant understand, so I walk down with my backpack, ready to leave.
There is a taxi waiting for me. He knows my name. No one else is around. That´s a bit weird, but oh well, whatever.
I get taken to the train station, arriving a couple of minutes after midday.
Mimi comes rushing towards me, Lets Go Lets Go Lets Go.
What´s the rush, I ask, the train doesnt leave till 1pm, I say,.
Áre You Crazy, she yells, ITS MIDDAY!!!!!
So then its a sprint to the train, the luggage area has closed, I have to remember which of my 3 bags has my passport, all the while hearing the train´s horn.
We run along the platform and jump onto the carriage. I made it by 2 minutes.
The group is cheering, having been stressed for the past hour wondering where the hell I was.
Mind you, I had a lovely morning. Bought 2 new white tops, walked around markets....
Anyway, we are on the Death Train for 24 HOURS...... we travelled 600kms!!!!!!!!!!
The time it takes to fly Sydney to London, I travelled on the worlds slowest and bumpiest train, to get to the Bolivian Brazil border.
So I had plenty of thinking time. As a perfectionist, I dont like to make mistakes, and that was a pretty big one for me. I pride myself on being an organised tourist who never runs late.
Then I came up with an idea for a book. It will be called Perfect Timing, and based on this trip and blog.
It will be about a single woman in her 30s, and how all her life she has aimed for a Perfect Life. Perfect Job, Perfect Man (hence why Im still single) etc.
And the book will be about the search for imperfection across South America. Lisa, can you pass this on to your friends at HarperCollins, Im sure they will agree its the next Eat, Pray, Love.
The other idea I came up with is to extend this Life Break of mine with a month in the US, via Miami, New York and LA....hmmmm...... will have to see if the jigsaw pieces fall into place.
So anyway, after a long long trip we eventually made it to our destination, the Pantanal in Brazil.
It is wetlands the size of France. We stayed in a lodge, in hammocks, for 2 nights.
We saw caimans (small crocodiles), weird wombat sized rodents, macaws, tucans, a rare nocturnal jaguar-type animal, and lots of bugs and mosquitoes. Oh, and two giant 3 metre long white cobras!!!! Which we chased through mud!!!! i hate snakes, I hate em!!!...as Indiana Jones says.
You can imagine the 3 days on the Pantanal put me well outside my comfort zone. Im a city girl. The rest of the tour group (we are a diverse bunch, and Im not really clicking with anyone in particular, but thats ok) seemed much more at ease. So after a day of horse riding, snake chasing and bug ducking and pihrana fishing, I had had my bravery quota filled ... and was dreaming about a 5 star hotel with a fluffy dressing gown and a champagne in hand.
The other hard part was the heat. About 35 degrees. So hot, hot hot. But there is no pool, and you cant swim in the river because of the caimans and the piranhas....
But im now in Bonito, a lovely little town with mod cons. Its still hot though...
Mimi, our tour leader, held a briefing on our final night in Bolivia. We were staying in a cool town called Santa Cruz. She told us to be ready to leave the hotel at 10.45 the next morning, because the train departs at midday, and we have to be there an hour early.
So I wake up early the next morning. ´Cool, be ready at 11.45´ I think to myself as I head out alone to explore the city on foot.
You can see where this is going.
So at 11.15 I arrive back at the hotel, ask the manager for my key and go upstairs to pack. I look at my watch a little later. ´Oh crap my watch has stopped´. I pelt downstairs and ask what the time is. Its 11.35. `No problem, Ive got another 10 minutes´. But then start to wonder where the other 10 people in my tour are....oh they must have just left early or gone to Santa Cruz Zoo I thought.
Back upstairs, my room phone rings and the manager is saying something in Spanish I cant understand, so I walk down with my backpack, ready to leave.
There is a taxi waiting for me. He knows my name. No one else is around. That´s a bit weird, but oh well, whatever.
I get taken to the train station, arriving a couple of minutes after midday.
Mimi comes rushing towards me, Lets Go Lets Go Lets Go.
What´s the rush, I ask, the train doesnt leave till 1pm, I say,.
Áre You Crazy, she yells, ITS MIDDAY!!!!!
So then its a sprint to the train, the luggage area has closed, I have to remember which of my 3 bags has my passport, all the while hearing the train´s horn.
We run along the platform and jump onto the carriage. I made it by 2 minutes.
The group is cheering, having been stressed for the past hour wondering where the hell I was.
Mind you, I had a lovely morning. Bought 2 new white tops, walked around markets....
Anyway, we are on the Death Train for 24 HOURS...... we travelled 600kms!!!!!!!!!!
The time it takes to fly Sydney to London, I travelled on the worlds slowest and bumpiest train, to get to the Bolivian Brazil border.
So I had plenty of thinking time. As a perfectionist, I dont like to make mistakes, and that was a pretty big one for me. I pride myself on being an organised tourist who never runs late.
Then I came up with an idea for a book. It will be called Perfect Timing, and based on this trip and blog.
It will be about a single woman in her 30s, and how all her life she has aimed for a Perfect Life. Perfect Job, Perfect Man (hence why Im still single) etc.
And the book will be about the search for imperfection across South America. Lisa, can you pass this on to your friends at HarperCollins, Im sure they will agree its the next Eat, Pray, Love.
The other idea I came up with is to extend this Life Break of mine with a month in the US, via Miami, New York and LA....hmmmm...... will have to see if the jigsaw pieces fall into place.
So anyway, after a long long trip we eventually made it to our destination, the Pantanal in Brazil.
It is wetlands the size of France. We stayed in a lodge, in hammocks, for 2 nights.
We saw caimans (small crocodiles), weird wombat sized rodents, macaws, tucans, a rare nocturnal jaguar-type animal, and lots of bugs and mosquitoes. Oh, and two giant 3 metre long white cobras!!!! Which we chased through mud!!!! i hate snakes, I hate em!!!...as Indiana Jones says.
You can imagine the 3 days on the Pantanal put me well outside my comfort zone. Im a city girl. The rest of the tour group (we are a diverse bunch, and Im not really clicking with anyone in particular, but thats ok) seemed much more at ease. So after a day of horse riding, snake chasing and bug ducking and pihrana fishing, I had had my bravery quota filled ... and was dreaming about a 5 star hotel with a fluffy dressing gown and a champagne in hand.
The other hard part was the heat. About 35 degrees. So hot, hot hot. But there is no pool, and you cant swim in the river because of the caimans and the piranhas....
But im now in Bonito, a lovely little town with mod cons. Its still hot though...
Monday, October 12, 2009
The one where Lynne loses altitude
Thank god to be over the high altitude part of the trip. After leaving Uyuni, we spent two nights in Potosi, which is 4100m above sea level, the highest city so far. It was really hard work. Hard to breathe, like your chest was constantly tightened. I spent one sleepless night tossing and turning feeling short of breath, then got a fever the next night.
It wasnt helped by the fact I spent 3 hours underground visiting a silver mine. Wow. I did it to challenge myself, but kinda wished I hadnt. It was horrible. Potosi used to be incredibly wealthy from all the silver it mined in a mountain which looms over the city. 8 million miners died working in terrible conditions over 400 years.
You know the Indiana Jones movie where they ride in those mine trolleys? Well its kinda like that, only really really cramped, and the place is full of asbestos and not much silver these days.
We walked through tunnels, sometimes having to stand up against the wall so miners could push heavy trolleys carrying rocks past us. The highlight (note the sarcasm please) was when our guide tells us to crawl through a one metre high space, for 5 metres, without touching the walls cause they have asbestos. The Scrivens family isnt renowned for its flexibility, so yes, I touched the walls.
The guide then showed us this statue deep inside the mine that the miners pray to for safety. Its very very well endowed, and the guide tells me all Bolivian men are like that, and asks would I like a Bolivian husband.
I tried to think happy thoughts but was really glad to see daylight again.
Thankfully our next stop was here in Sucre. Its a lovely Spanish colonial town, the official capital of Bolivia. And its only 2500m above sea level, which has made the world of difference to our energy levels and capacity to breathe. I might as well be walking on the beach. The climate is awesome, shorts and t shirts from here on in.
Its a great town to get lost walking around in. We went out last night too. Mimi our cute little 23 year old Brazilian tour leader taught me to dance salsa in a nightclub. I felt like a 200kg uncoordinated gorilla next to her. I think Brazilians are born dancing. I wasnt.
Me and a couple of others kicked on at a couple of more nightclubs. The last one cost guys twice as much as girls to get in, and there were a lot of local women in their finest trying to pick up drunk gringo men. As you can imagine, many succeeded because Bolivian women are mostly very beautiful.
Losing more altitude tomorrow, when I head to Santa Cruz.
It wasnt helped by the fact I spent 3 hours underground visiting a silver mine. Wow. I did it to challenge myself, but kinda wished I hadnt. It was horrible. Potosi used to be incredibly wealthy from all the silver it mined in a mountain which looms over the city. 8 million miners died working in terrible conditions over 400 years.
You know the Indiana Jones movie where they ride in those mine trolleys? Well its kinda like that, only really really cramped, and the place is full of asbestos and not much silver these days.
We walked through tunnels, sometimes having to stand up against the wall so miners could push heavy trolleys carrying rocks past us. The highlight (note the sarcasm please) was when our guide tells us to crawl through a one metre high space, for 5 metres, without touching the walls cause they have asbestos. The Scrivens family isnt renowned for its flexibility, so yes, I touched the walls.
The guide then showed us this statue deep inside the mine that the miners pray to for safety. Its very very well endowed, and the guide tells me all Bolivian men are like that, and asks would I like a Bolivian husband.
I tried to think happy thoughts but was really glad to see daylight again.
Thankfully our next stop was here in Sucre. Its a lovely Spanish colonial town, the official capital of Bolivia. And its only 2500m above sea level, which has made the world of difference to our energy levels and capacity to breathe. I might as well be walking on the beach. The climate is awesome, shorts and t shirts from here on in.
Its a great town to get lost walking around in. We went out last night too. Mimi our cute little 23 year old Brazilian tour leader taught me to dance salsa in a nightclub. I felt like a 200kg uncoordinated gorilla next to her. I think Brazilians are born dancing. I wasnt.
Me and a couple of others kicked on at a couple of more nightclubs. The last one cost guys twice as much as girls to get in, and there were a lot of local women in their finest trying to pick up drunk gringo men. As you can imagine, many succeeded because Bolivian women are mostly very beautiful.
Losing more altitude tomorrow, when I head to Santa Cruz.
Friday, October 9, 2009
The one where Lynne hit a Bolivian roadblock
So much to update you on! The roadblock is a great travel story (although not as good as my being held at gunpoint on a Guatemala bus). But first....
So Paul went back to London and Rena went to the Galapagos Islands, and I joined my new tour. 26 days La Paz to Rio, with Intrepid. There are 11 of us, mixed nationalities, mostly women travelling on our own, and Im median age.
But the first day I sulked, because Paul and Rena werent there. I made no effort to make new friends, and let myself be grumpy. We travelled 3 hours on a bus, then a 7 hour train ride to Uyuni, arriving at 2.30am!!! It was a freezing 4 block walk to our hotel.
I got over my grumpiness the next day, and made more of an effort with the group. Thats because we were going to the Bolivian Salt Flats, which have been in my top 3 travel destinations for the past decade, since people like Katie and Mossy went there when we were living in London.
And they didnt disappoint. Oh my god, the surreal landscape was photographic heaven. We were in 4wds, 8 people per vehicle, no seatbelts of course.
The first day was driving across blindingly white salt plains, as big as Northern Ireland. Salt as far as you can see, and on the horizon were island-looking mirages, one of which turned out to be catcus covered oasis where we stopped for lunch.
You take perspective defying photos because its all white. Amazing. We kept driving to a salt hotel, made of salt obviously. Its seriously in the middle of nowhere. The desert gets to -8 degrees at night, so its warm days and freezing freezing nights.
The next day we drove through a different landscape, with volcanoes, a red lagoon, pink flamingoes, and lots of bumpy roads. The drivers were great, we would go off off road and just make our own path across the desert.
The next night was in another basic hotel, with 7 to a dorm. I didnt sleep well. The altitude makes me short of breath at night. We went as high as 5,000m on this trip. Plus I was sleeping with a beanie, socks, 3 tops, 3 blankets, a sleeping bag and sleeping liner on!!!
It was a 5am start, and we had to put swimmers on to go to the hot springs! Was so bizarre, but great to get in hot water. The final leg of the 4wd trip was a full on travel day, after seeing a beautiful blue lagoon.
But when we got back to Uyuni, there was a truckies strike blockading roads into the town! We tried to go an alternate route, but were stopped by them. A giant bus was blocking a level crossing, stopping cars from entering town, and trains from passing.
The chef on our tour came up with a plan... pretend one of us is sick and we need to go to the hospital immediately, so we have to be allowed through. No one would volunteer, so I did. So there I am imagining what Cate Blanchett would do, thinking how am I going to look sick, when all I am is dusty and unwashed. But then they decided it was too dangerous, because the truckies might just take me to hospital themselves, and leave the others stranded. Imagine me turning up to hospital going ´ha ha....just jokes...im fine...¨with angry truckies looking at me.
So our drivers spent about 2 hours negotiating with the strikers, all the while the sun is fast disappearing and its getting cold.
Finally, the strikers agreed to let the tourists into town, but they were going to drive us in on the bus that was blocking the road!! As 25 tourists were loaded onto the bus, all I could think was how much of an international incident they could create with all us foreigners taken hostage on the bus!!! I told everyone to get cameras out if something happened cause we could make money! I was imagining my phoner to Roscoe, and thinking how I could call Ric Carter to give 7 the scoop.
Anyway, the strikers were quite lovely, despite their apparent tendencies for violence, and we were dropped off in town without a problem. But our poor drivers spent a cold night at the blockade, and now there are no buses leaving Uyuni today, so we have to hire 4wds again to take us the back route to get us to our next town of Potosi!
The escape from Uyuni (its a crap town, hence our eagerness to get out) was very funny. We left town via a bush-bashing fire trail, and spent over an hour 4WDing to get back onto the main road. It was all very exciting. We were the only tourists getting out. Everyone else had to stay till the strike ended, and that may not be for a week!
So Paul went back to London and Rena went to the Galapagos Islands, and I joined my new tour. 26 days La Paz to Rio, with Intrepid. There are 11 of us, mixed nationalities, mostly women travelling on our own, and Im median age.
But the first day I sulked, because Paul and Rena werent there. I made no effort to make new friends, and let myself be grumpy. We travelled 3 hours on a bus, then a 7 hour train ride to Uyuni, arriving at 2.30am!!! It was a freezing 4 block walk to our hotel.
I got over my grumpiness the next day, and made more of an effort with the group. Thats because we were going to the Bolivian Salt Flats, which have been in my top 3 travel destinations for the past decade, since people like Katie and Mossy went there when we were living in London.
And they didnt disappoint. Oh my god, the surreal landscape was photographic heaven. We were in 4wds, 8 people per vehicle, no seatbelts of course.
The first day was driving across blindingly white salt plains, as big as Northern Ireland. Salt as far as you can see, and on the horizon were island-looking mirages, one of which turned out to be catcus covered oasis where we stopped for lunch.
You take perspective defying photos because its all white. Amazing. We kept driving to a salt hotel, made of salt obviously. Its seriously in the middle of nowhere. The desert gets to -8 degrees at night, so its warm days and freezing freezing nights.
The next day we drove through a different landscape, with volcanoes, a red lagoon, pink flamingoes, and lots of bumpy roads. The drivers were great, we would go off off road and just make our own path across the desert.
The next night was in another basic hotel, with 7 to a dorm. I didnt sleep well. The altitude makes me short of breath at night. We went as high as 5,000m on this trip. Plus I was sleeping with a beanie, socks, 3 tops, 3 blankets, a sleeping bag and sleeping liner on!!!
It was a 5am start, and we had to put swimmers on to go to the hot springs! Was so bizarre, but great to get in hot water. The final leg of the 4wd trip was a full on travel day, after seeing a beautiful blue lagoon.
But when we got back to Uyuni, there was a truckies strike blockading roads into the town! We tried to go an alternate route, but were stopped by them. A giant bus was blocking a level crossing, stopping cars from entering town, and trains from passing.
The chef on our tour came up with a plan... pretend one of us is sick and we need to go to the hospital immediately, so we have to be allowed through. No one would volunteer, so I did. So there I am imagining what Cate Blanchett would do, thinking how am I going to look sick, when all I am is dusty and unwashed. But then they decided it was too dangerous, because the truckies might just take me to hospital themselves, and leave the others stranded. Imagine me turning up to hospital going ´ha ha....just jokes...im fine...¨with angry truckies looking at me.
So our drivers spent about 2 hours negotiating with the strikers, all the while the sun is fast disappearing and its getting cold.
Finally, the strikers agreed to let the tourists into town, but they were going to drive us in on the bus that was blocking the road!! As 25 tourists were loaded onto the bus, all I could think was how much of an international incident they could create with all us foreigners taken hostage on the bus!!! I told everyone to get cameras out if something happened cause we could make money! I was imagining my phoner to Roscoe, and thinking how I could call Ric Carter to give 7 the scoop.
Anyway, the strikers were quite lovely, despite their apparent tendencies for violence, and we were dropped off in town without a problem. But our poor drivers spent a cold night at the blockade, and now there are no buses leaving Uyuni today, so we have to hire 4wds again to take us the back route to get us to our next town of Potosi!
The escape from Uyuni (its a crap town, hence our eagerness to get out) was very funny. We left town via a bush-bashing fire trail, and spent over an hour 4WDing to get back onto the main road. It was all very exciting. We were the only tourists getting out. Everyone else had to stay till the strike ended, and that may not be for a week!
Sunday, October 4, 2009
The one where Lynne turned 35
Yes the big birthday that was one of the catalysts for the trip arrived while I was in Puno. Woke to open Katie´s present which she´d given me before leaving. Thanks!
We headed by bus to the Bolivian border. Oh my god it was the craziest border crossing Ive ever seen. It took 3 hours. It was market day, so there were thousands of people selling stuff and walking around. Our bus was driving through crowds of people.
Thankfully our border crossing was only 3 hours .. the locals were in for a much longer wait. Being tourists meant we were fast tracked.
It was then another couple of hours drive to La Paz. The scenery was surreal. It was like Dubbo meets the Canadian Rockies. We were driving through barren land, then in the background were huge snowy mountains.
La Paz rocks. Crazy, chaotic, no road rules, people everywhere. Very different to Peru. I love it.
Being my birthday, we took guidance from the Lonely Planet and headed to a bar restaurant called RamJam and had huge meals for $7. Its so cheap here.
Paul, Rena and I stayed and drank Pisco Sours, then moved to a bar called Mongos. It didnt get going till about 1am, but when it did there was lots of dancing, chatting to drunk tourists (well Rena did most of the talking, and convinced one guy to a dance off. She does Running Man very well).
Then that place closed and we headed to one of those cool underground places where you go in via an unmarked door. Was lots of fun. When we wanted to leave the bouncer wouldnt let us out cause the cops were outside!!! But we managed to make it home (thanks to a 100m cab ride cause we had no idea where we were in relation to our hotel. Turned out to be very close).
Yesterday we slept, Paul and I had pizza for lunch and headed up to the top of the city for breathtaking views. La Paz is in a valley.
We had our final group dinner then it was time to say goodbye. Agghhhh I hate goodbyes. Cant believe Paul and Rena have gone! I just wanted to smuggle them into my backpack and make them come on the rest of the trip with me. We became such good friends and Ill miss them heaps. Who will I have bitchy banter with now Pauls not here????
We headed by bus to the Bolivian border. Oh my god it was the craziest border crossing Ive ever seen. It took 3 hours. It was market day, so there were thousands of people selling stuff and walking around. Our bus was driving through crowds of people.
Thankfully our border crossing was only 3 hours .. the locals were in for a much longer wait. Being tourists meant we were fast tracked.
It was then another couple of hours drive to La Paz. The scenery was surreal. It was like Dubbo meets the Canadian Rockies. We were driving through barren land, then in the background were huge snowy mountains.
La Paz rocks. Crazy, chaotic, no road rules, people everywhere. Very different to Peru. I love it.
Being my birthday, we took guidance from the Lonely Planet and headed to a bar restaurant called RamJam and had huge meals for $7. Its so cheap here.
Paul, Rena and I stayed and drank Pisco Sours, then moved to a bar called Mongos. It didnt get going till about 1am, but when it did there was lots of dancing, chatting to drunk tourists (well Rena did most of the talking, and convinced one guy to a dance off. She does Running Man very well).
Then that place closed and we headed to one of those cool underground places where you go in via an unmarked door. Was lots of fun. When we wanted to leave the bouncer wouldnt let us out cause the cops were outside!!! But we managed to make it home (thanks to a 100m cab ride cause we had no idea where we were in relation to our hotel. Turned out to be very close).
Yesterday we slept, Paul and I had pizza for lunch and headed up to the top of the city for breathtaking views. La Paz is in a valley.
We had our final group dinner then it was time to say goodbye. Agghhhh I hate goodbyes. Cant believe Paul and Rena have gone! I just wanted to smuggle them into my backpack and make them come on the rest of the trip with me. We became such good friends and Ill miss them heaps. Who will I have bitchy banter with now Pauls not here????
Friday, October 2, 2009
The one where Lynne played dress ups
More on the dress ups in a minute, first a re cap of the past few days.
Paul, the Australian living in London, and his English friend Rena and I decided to have a big night out for our last night out in Cusco. Was heaps of fun. Went to a bar called Fallen Angel which had fish aquariums for tables and amazing art on the walls. Then went to Mama Africa, another bar, where the music ranged from salsa, to bad 80s, to techno. Stumbled home at 3am, to be up again at 6am for a bus to Puno. Thank god for travel sickness tablets to help me sleep on bus.
Puno is on the shores of Lake Titicaca. By now our group is down to 5 people. An Australian couple in their 50s, and me, Paul and Rena. Thank god us 3 get along really well cause id be struggling without those 2. Paul has had me laughing for nearly 2 weeks now.
Our first chance to play dress ups was on a floating reed island, where a family got me and Paul to wear traditional costumes. Ill post the pictures on facebook some time. They are hilarious. That started a full day of giggling for me. I cant believe i turn 35 tomorrow. So mature.
We travelled by boat to Amantani Island, to stay with a family. Now these people live without electricity or running water. Im talking no flushing toilets, no mobile phones, no internet and no tv. Amazing to think they still do that in 2009.
Paul, Rena and I stayed with one family, who didnt speak English so we got by on my limited Spanish. They cooked us lunch, which was potatoes and soup, and dinner, potatoes and rice. More giggling.
Then it was our second time to play dress ups. Rena and I wore lovely black ruffle skirts, embroidered shirts and cumberband style belts that made it hard to breathe. Especially when we are 4,000 m above sea level.
Im sorry but i cant figure out where the exclamation point is on the keyboard, so the writing may seem a little dull.
Then it was Pauls turn to start the giggling because he only had to wear a colourful beanie that covered his ears, and a big woollen poncho.
Then came the time when we put dignity aside. Us 3 professionals in our 30s were taken to a local hall and shown how to dance the Armantani Island way, with men playing local instruments. They got us each up to dance, and the whole thing went for an hour. We were glad when it was over. Included was a locomotion style bop around the hall. As Paul said We Shall Never Speak Of This Again. That set my giggling off again.
We are glad to be back on the mainland now, with flushing toilets and showers.
Paul, the Australian living in London, and his English friend Rena and I decided to have a big night out for our last night out in Cusco. Was heaps of fun. Went to a bar called Fallen Angel which had fish aquariums for tables and amazing art on the walls. Then went to Mama Africa, another bar, where the music ranged from salsa, to bad 80s, to techno. Stumbled home at 3am, to be up again at 6am for a bus to Puno. Thank god for travel sickness tablets to help me sleep on bus.
Puno is on the shores of Lake Titicaca. By now our group is down to 5 people. An Australian couple in their 50s, and me, Paul and Rena. Thank god us 3 get along really well cause id be struggling without those 2. Paul has had me laughing for nearly 2 weeks now.
Our first chance to play dress ups was on a floating reed island, where a family got me and Paul to wear traditional costumes. Ill post the pictures on facebook some time. They are hilarious. That started a full day of giggling for me. I cant believe i turn 35 tomorrow. So mature.
We travelled by boat to Amantani Island, to stay with a family. Now these people live without electricity or running water. Im talking no flushing toilets, no mobile phones, no internet and no tv. Amazing to think they still do that in 2009.
Paul, Rena and I stayed with one family, who didnt speak English so we got by on my limited Spanish. They cooked us lunch, which was potatoes and soup, and dinner, potatoes and rice. More giggling.
Then it was our second time to play dress ups. Rena and I wore lovely black ruffle skirts, embroidered shirts and cumberband style belts that made it hard to breathe. Especially when we are 4,000 m above sea level.
Im sorry but i cant figure out where the exclamation point is on the keyboard, so the writing may seem a little dull.
Then it was Pauls turn to start the giggling because he only had to wear a colourful beanie that covered his ears, and a big woollen poncho.
Then came the time when we put dignity aside. Us 3 professionals in our 30s were taken to a local hall and shown how to dance the Armantani Island way, with men playing local instruments. They got us each up to dance, and the whole thing went for an hour. We were glad when it was over. Included was a locomotion style bop around the hall. As Paul said We Shall Never Speak Of This Again. That set my giggling off again.
We are glad to be back on the mainland now, with flushing toilets and showers.
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
The one where Lynne went to Machu Pichu
You´ve all seen the postcard pictures, and yes, it´s even better in real life.
So first let me tell you about my tour guide, Mario, who´s a Peruvian in his late 40s and likes to stay awake till 4am every day. As Paul said "He´s probably the most uncharismatic tour guide ever." Paul is an Australian living in London. He´s cute and funny and makes me laugh, but before any of you go "Oh I knew you´d meet someone on your trip." He´s gay. And no Geoff, he´s not your type. He´s 34. Way too old for you. Anyway, back to Mario. He´s a guide who gives us the bare minimum information, but thankfully we have other local guides for day trips who are much more entertaining and informative.
So Mario at 5.30am hands us over to Augustine, and we join hundreds of tourists queueing for buses in Agues Calientes to take us to the top of the mountain to see Machu Pichu.
We get there just after 6am ... and cant see a thing.... the clouds completely blanket the Inca ruins.
But while listening to Augustine tell us about the miracle of how the Incas built these temples and homes so high up, Machu Pichu slowly reveals itself as the cloud lifts.
It´s incredible, and we all take about 100 photos.
We walk around getting a guided tour for nearly 4 hours, then me, Paul, April and Paul´s friend Reena head up to walk to the Sun Gate, 45 mins away, for spectacular views. It´s great. One of those ´travel moments´.
Getting back to Cusco was anything but. We had a few hours to kill before our train, so had Pisco Sours (the local drink. its cheap and yummy). We´re provided with a bizarre Peruvian fashion parade on the train, then have to wait half an hour for a bus to take us the rest of the way back to Cusco. And its a really windy road. And its 11pm, and we´ve been a wake since before 5am.
Anyway, all part of the joys of travelling through South America!
So first let me tell you about my tour guide, Mario, who´s a Peruvian in his late 40s and likes to stay awake till 4am every day. As Paul said "He´s probably the most uncharismatic tour guide ever." Paul is an Australian living in London. He´s cute and funny and makes me laugh, but before any of you go "Oh I knew you´d meet someone on your trip." He´s gay. And no Geoff, he´s not your type. He´s 34. Way too old for you. Anyway, back to Mario. He´s a guide who gives us the bare minimum information, but thankfully we have other local guides for day trips who are much more entertaining and informative.
So Mario at 5.30am hands us over to Augustine, and we join hundreds of tourists queueing for buses in Agues Calientes to take us to the top of the mountain to see Machu Pichu.
We get there just after 6am ... and cant see a thing.... the clouds completely blanket the Inca ruins.
But while listening to Augustine tell us about the miracle of how the Incas built these temples and homes so high up, Machu Pichu slowly reveals itself as the cloud lifts.
It´s incredible, and we all take about 100 photos.
We walk around getting a guided tour for nearly 4 hours, then me, Paul, April and Paul´s friend Reena head up to walk to the Sun Gate, 45 mins away, for spectacular views. It´s great. One of those ´travel moments´.
Getting back to Cusco was anything but. We had a few hours to kill before our train, so had Pisco Sours (the local drink. its cheap and yummy). We´re provided with a bizarre Peruvian fashion parade on the train, then have to wait half an hour for a bus to take us the rest of the way back to Cusco. And its a really windy road. And its 11pm, and we´ve been a wake since before 5am.
Anyway, all part of the joys of travelling through South America!
Saturday, September 26, 2009
The one where Lynne raves about tour groups
I used to be a backpacker snob. You know, I looked down on tour groups with disdain, while spending half my day organising where to stay, eat, how to get there. Jane and I did Europe and Central America that way, we´ve driven across the US, and Ive travelled through Russia and China on my own. So I think Ive earned the right to go with tour groups.
Also, being a TV news producer I must have made 100 decisions every day. Is this story of interest to the viewers? Should it go higher in the rundown? How will I write the intro to get viewers interested? Should I get Geoff´s coffee for him before or after morning conference? Should I email Matt a photo of a hot guy off the internet, or is he too busy to perv?
But can I say being on a tour in Peru is awesome. I so love switching my brain off and being told what to do. Be ready to leave for the Sacred Valley at 9am. Meet here for dinner at 7pm.
And the group is pretty cool too. April, the 27 year old Canadian Im sharing a room with, is lovely. There are 7 others .. a few around my age, and 2 older couples. There´s one guy who is the Australian George Costanza. He wears tracksuit pants outside. As Jerry told George Its Like Youve Given Up.
Cusco is an amazing city. Love love love it. The Andes surround the city, its built on what used to be a lake. The town square is one of the prettiest ive ever seen. And the nearby towns of Pisac and Olyantatambo today were beautiful.
Also, being a TV news producer I must have made 100 decisions every day. Is this story of interest to the viewers? Should it go higher in the rundown? How will I write the intro to get viewers interested? Should I get Geoff´s coffee for him before or after morning conference? Should I email Matt a photo of a hot guy off the internet, or is he too busy to perv?
But can I say being on a tour in Peru is awesome. I so love switching my brain off and being told what to do. Be ready to leave for the Sacred Valley at 9am. Meet here for dinner at 7pm.
And the group is pretty cool too. April, the 27 year old Canadian Im sharing a room with, is lovely. There are 7 others .. a few around my age, and 2 older couples. There´s one guy who is the Australian George Costanza. He wears tracksuit pants outside. As Jerry told George Its Like Youve Given Up.
Cusco is an amazing city. Love love love it. The Andes surround the city, its built on what used to be a lake. The town square is one of the prettiest ive ever seen. And the nearby towns of Pisac and Olyantatambo today were beautiful.
Friday, September 25, 2009
The one where Lynne ate raw chicken
So a couple of days ago I finally got the courage to eat in a restaurant on my own, and pick something off the menu in Spanish. I ordered chicken kebabs and it came back beautifully presented with salad and chips. Im thinking ´happy days´when half way through my meal i realise the chicken isnt cooked properly.
So I stop eating and ask for the bill, all the while thinking im about to die from salmonella poisoning. The waitress could see the problem, and chef was giving my filthy stares, and i didnt have to pay for the chicken.
And I didnt get sick!
I joined a Geckos tour in Lima, but there was only two other people on it until we flew to Cusco today and were joined by another 6. So its not too big a group.
Im sharing a room with a Canadian 27 year old called April who is lovely.
Lima was nice. We went to this water fountain spectacular thing they do at night where the water lights up to music.
I also enjoyed my first pisco sour (the local drink) in the bar that came up with the idea to begin with! Its quite nice, if a little strong!
Lima is a bit unsafe, but we were in a lovely hotel right in the centre of town.
Flew to Cusco this morning, and im loving it. The altitude has me slightly light headed but not sick yet, touch wood. We are 3300 metres above sea level.
But the town has a great square to sit and people watch. And we are staying in the cutest hostal up the hill with great views.
So I stop eating and ask for the bill, all the while thinking im about to die from salmonella poisoning. The waitress could see the problem, and chef was giving my filthy stares, and i didnt have to pay for the chicken.
And I didnt get sick!
I joined a Geckos tour in Lima, but there was only two other people on it until we flew to Cusco today and were joined by another 6. So its not too big a group.
Im sharing a room with a Canadian 27 year old called April who is lovely.
Lima was nice. We went to this water fountain spectacular thing they do at night where the water lights up to music.
I also enjoyed my first pisco sour (the local drink) in the bar that came up with the idea to begin with! Its quite nice, if a little strong!
Lima is a bit unsafe, but we were in a lovely hotel right in the centre of town.
Flew to Cusco this morning, and im loving it. The altitude has me slightly light headed but not sick yet, touch wood. We are 3300 metres above sea level.
But the town has a great square to sit and people watch. And we are staying in the cutest hostal up the hill with great views.
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
The one where Lynne realises she´s the only blonde
Yes, probably could have dyed my hair a shade darker or two before leaving. I seemed to be the only blonde in Santiago. Comments from the Customs guy: ´single. that´s good.´The drunk homeless man: ´where you from? California?¨and the dodgy tourist official who swindled me of a couple of bucks: ´blonde is not normal here.¨Thanks Einstein.
Oh, I´ve decided to name each post like an episode of Friends ... The One Where .... etc.
Santiago was a nice start to South America. Wealthy, safe. Although the beautiful view of the surrounding snow capped Andes I had when I flew in, disappeared on my day of sightseeing. I caught this funicular train thingy to the top of a mountain for the views, only to have them vanish on me completely within 5 minutes when the clouds came in and visibility dropped to about 10 metres.
But ´my lovely hostel´turned out to be Chile´s number one party destination I think. Im showing my age, but far out these people just wouldnt sleep!!!!! Between a chick and her guitar singing ´wild thing´at 3am and my jet lag, i didnt sleep much last night.
They were still partying when i had to get up at 5.30am to get the plane to Lima!!! No more hostels. Im too old, even if i get my own room.
So Im in Lima now. God the poverty compared to Santiago was quite a shock. Different ball game now in terms of pick pocketers etc. As Chevy Chase said in National Lampoons ´roll em up.´
But the hotel is lovely. Right in the centre of town, a guy opens the door to the foyer for you, the room has a tv etc. This is more like it!
Oh, I´ve decided to name each post like an episode of Friends ... The One Where .... etc.
Santiago was a nice start to South America. Wealthy, safe. Although the beautiful view of the surrounding snow capped Andes I had when I flew in, disappeared on my day of sightseeing. I caught this funicular train thingy to the top of a mountain for the views, only to have them vanish on me completely within 5 minutes when the clouds came in and visibility dropped to about 10 metres.
But ´my lovely hostel´turned out to be Chile´s number one party destination I think. Im showing my age, but far out these people just wouldnt sleep!!!!! Between a chick and her guitar singing ´wild thing´at 3am and my jet lag, i didnt sleep much last night.
They were still partying when i had to get up at 5.30am to get the plane to Lima!!! No more hostels. Im too old, even if i get my own room.
So Im in Lima now. God the poverty compared to Santiago was quite a shock. Different ball game now in terms of pick pocketers etc. As Chevy Chase said in National Lampoons ´roll em up.´
But the hotel is lovely. Right in the centre of town, a guy opens the door to the foyer for you, the room has a tv etc. This is more like it!
Monday, September 21, 2009
The one where Lynne nearly got an upgrade
Well flying long haul is never a pleasant experience. This flight had promise. I got on board to see a big Maori man in my seat, and after being told to ´wait here´the flight attendant returned with a new boarding pass.
I could see that magic word ´business´and my heart started racing. But alas, on closer inspection they had given the Maori man the upgrade.
The flight was delayed a couple of hours in Auckland, first it was éngine problems´then ´paperwork´.
So I had a couple of Chardonnays while chatting with a guy from Maroubra (Mark, who has a sister called Lynette...). He was flying to Peru to see his Peruvian girlfriend and meet the in laws.
I had a spare seat next to me on the 10 hour flight to Santiago, so at least got a half decent sleep.
Had a dream run through Customs and got a taxi to a lovely old hostel in the bohemian part of town.
Santiago seems to shut down completely on Sundays .. everything boarded up, so didnt do much today except stroll the neighbourhood and have a sleep.
Can´t believe the trip has finally started!!!
I could see that magic word ´business´and my heart started racing. But alas, on closer inspection they had given the Maori man the upgrade.
The flight was delayed a couple of hours in Auckland, first it was éngine problems´then ´paperwork´.
So I had a couple of Chardonnays while chatting with a guy from Maroubra (Mark, who has a sister called Lynette...). He was flying to Peru to see his Peruvian girlfriend and meet the in laws.
I had a spare seat next to me on the 10 hour flight to Santiago, so at least got a half decent sleep.
Had a dream run through Customs and got a taxi to a lovely old hostel in the bohemian part of town.
Santiago seems to shut down completely on Sundays .. everything boarded up, so didnt do much today except stroll the neighbourhood and have a sleep.
Can´t believe the trip has finally started!!!
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Still in Sydney
So I haven't actually left Sydney yet. This post is more a test to figure out if I can work this blog. It's still just under 3 weeks till I fly to Santiago.
Plenty of time to get organised.
Plenty of time to get organised.
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