Saturday, October 31, 2009

The one where Lynne found paradise

Yes I am in paradise, but had a travel low point to get here.
I was staying in Rio for an extra night, after the tour finished, before flying here to Jericoacoara on Brazils far north east coast.
A girl on the tour, had already booked her extra night through Intrepid at home. Once at the hotel, she realised she had paid an extortionate amount of money for the room, almost double what the rate was.
So she suggested I sneakily stay in her room the extra night, and go halves with her. I didnt want to, it was of no financial benefit to me, but I agreed because Im a believer in travel karma, and wanted to be nice.
So there I was, a 35 year old who earned good money, sneaking around the hotel pretending I had checked out. I even carried a girls backpack out to look like I had left.
And I had a barely single bed to sleep in, while she had the double....
At 3.30am the next morning I was due to get a transfer to the airport.
The night manager made me check my name off the list, and our game was up. So I had to pay an extra 40 reais (about $30).
Then I waited for my taxi ... and waited and waited. The hotel manager offered to call a cab, but then seemed unable to get through. So with time ticking away, at 4am I was stressed and angry, and grabbed my backpack and started walking to the end of the street to find my own cab. At 4am ... in dodgy Rio De Janeiro.... after hearing loud sounds and whistles not far away (it turned out to be boys playing soccer).
Luckily a nicer hotel was up the street, with a cab waiting and a lovely concierge who organised the cost of the fare. Still, I wasnt happy Jan at suddenly forking out all this extra cash before the sun had come up.
Ahhhh but now Im in Jeri and all that is a distant memory. It took a 5 hour flight and a 5 hour 4WD trip to get here. But soooo worth it.
The Lonely Planet calls Jeri a truly special place, and the LP got it right. Its paradise.
Its so remote I feel like im on the corner of the earth.
The sand street village is surrounded by sand dunes, so only 4WDS can access it. Its small but has heaps of great restaurants and shops. The only real problem is the wind. Its a kite surfing capital of the world, so there is lots of wind all the time!
When I arrived I had no accommodation booked. The driver took me to this great pousada, overlooking the dunes. So Im splurging. Its about $80 a night (a lot for an unemployed backpacker). But I have a roof top balcony all to myself. And theres a pool. I had planned on staying 5 nights, but ive booked 8.
After all that overland travel its so good to get settled in one place, and just chill.
I met an Irish guy called Steve, who lives in Spain with his Spanish girlfriend Christina, in the 4WD on the way here. Lovely people. Last night we went to an amazing restaurant. It had plastic chairs and tables outside, and a man cooking fish on a bbq. It was packed, so we knew it was going to be good.
I know I rave on and on about the Brazilian food, but the fish was unbelievable. You pick your own from eskies, and he cooks it on the bbq. Melt in your mouth fish, washed down with a capirinha and rice and salad. Awesome.
Steve, Christina and I speak Spanglish. Its great to practice my Spanish with them, and learn the finer points of the language. Although they speak Spain Spanish, which is a little different to Latin America Spanish (like they pronounce gracias GRATH-E-ASS, while in South America its GRASSY-ASS). And Brazilians only speak Portugese, so its getting complicated!
Sunset involves a walk up the highest dune to watch the sun go down. There are stalls set up at night selling alcohol on the street. As I wondered around, capirinha in hand, I thought ... this is it. This is what life is all about. Although it would be nicer if someone was here to share this with!

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